Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
that the persons who were guilty of these acts of pillage are
excellent judges of paintings, for they never fail to keep the best
things for themselves. The courtyards and cloisters are admirable,
and are adorned with fountains, orange-trees, and flowers.
How excellently are such places adapted for reverie, meditation,
and study, and what a pity is it that convents were ever inhabited
by monks, and not by poets! The gardens, left to themselves, have
assumed a wild, savage aspect; luxuriant vegetation has invaded
the walks, and Nature has regained possession of her own, planting
a tuft of flowers or grass in the place of every stone that has
fallen out. The most remarkable feature in these gardens is an
alley of enormous laurels, forming a covered walk which is paved
with white marble, and furnished, on each side, with a long seat
of the same material, with a slanting back. At certain distances
from each other, a number of small fountains maintain a refreshing
coolness beneath this thick vault of verdure, at the end of which
you have a splendid view of a portion of the Sierra Nevada, through
a charming Moorish mirador, which forms part of an old Arabic
palace, enclosed in the convent. This pavilion is said to have
communicated, by means of long subterranean galleries, with the
Alhambra, which is situated at some considerable distance. However,
this is an idea deeply rooted in the minds of the inhabitants of
Granada, where the least Moorish ruin is always presented with five
or six leagues of subterranean passages as well as a treasure,
guarded by some spell or other.
We often went to San Domingo to sit beneath the shade of the
laurels and bathe in a pool, near which, if the satirical songs
are to be believed, the monks used to lead no very reputable sort
of life. It is a remarkable fact, that the most Catholic countries
are always those in which the priests and monks are treated most
cavalierly; the Spanish songs and stories about the clergy rival,
in licence, the facetiæ of Rabelais and Beroalde de Verville, and
to judge by the manner in which all the ceremonies of the church
are parodied in the old pieces, one would hardly think that the
Inquisition had ever existed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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