Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
At the appointed hour, the horses were before our house, while
Romero was hammering away at the door with the butt-end of his
carbine. Still scarcely awake, we mounted our steeds, and the
procession set forth, our guide running on beforehand to point
out the road. Although it was already light, the sun had not
risen, and the undulating outlines of the smaller hills, which we
had passed, were spread out all around us, cool, limpid and blue,
like the waves of an immovable ocean. In the distance, Granada had
disappeared beneath the vapourized atmosphere. When the fiery globe
at last appeared on the horizon, all the hill-tops were covered
with a rosy tint, like so many young girls at the sight of their
lovers, and appeared to experience a feeling of bashful confusion
at the idea of having been seen in their morning _déshabille_.
The ridges of the mountain are connected with the plain by gentle
slopes, forming the first table-land which is easily accessible.
When we reached this place, our guide decided that we should allow
our horses a little breathing time, give them something to eat,
and breakfast ourselves. We ensconced ourselves at the foot of a
rock, near a little spring, the water of which was as bright as a
diamond, and sparkled beneath the emerald-coloured grass. Romero,
with all the dexterity of an American savage, improvised a fire
with a handful of brush-wood, while Louis prepared some chocolate,
which, with the addition of a slice of ham and a draught of wine,
composed our first meal in the mountains. While our breakfast was
cooking, a superb viper passed beside us, and appeared surprised
and dissatisfied at our installing ourselves on his estate, a fact
that he gave us to understand by unpolitely hissing at us, for
which he was rewarded by a sturdy thrust with a sword-stick through
the stomach. A little bird, that had watched the proceedings very
attentively, no sooner saw the viper disabled, than it flew up with
the feathers of its neck standing on end, its eye all fire, and
flapping its wings, and piping in a strange state of exultation.
Every time that any portion of the venomous beast writhed
convulsively, the bird shrunk back, soon returning to the charge,
however, and pecking the viper with its beak, after which it would
rise in the air three or four feet. I do not know what the serpent
could have done, during its lifetime, to the bird, or what was the
feeling of hatred we had gratified by killing the viper, but it is
certain that I never beheld such an amount of delight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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