Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
We once again set out. From time to time we met a string of little
asses coming down from the higher parts of the mountains with their
load of snow, which they were carrying to Granada for the day's
consumption. The drivers saluted us, as they passed by, with the
time honoured "_Vayan Ustedes con Dios_," and we replied by some
joke about their merchandise, which would never accompany them as
far as the city, and which they would be obliged to sell to the
official who was entrusted with the duty of watering the public
streets.
We were always preceded by Romero, who leaped from stone to stone
with the agility of a chamois, and kept exclaiming, _Bueno camino_
(a good road). I should certainly very much like to know what
the worthy fellow would call a bad road, for, as far as I was
concerned, I could not perceive the slightest sign of any road at
all. To our right and left, as far as the eye could distinguish,
yawned delightful abysses, very blue, very azure and very vapoury,
varying in depth from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet, a
difference, however, about which we troubled our heads very little,
for a few dozen fathoms more or less made very little difference
in the matter. I recollect with a shudder a certain pass, three or
four pistol-shots long and two feet broad,--a sort of natural plank
running between two gulfs. As my horse headed the procession, I had
to pass first over this kind of tight-rope, which would have made
the most determined acrobats pause and reflect. At certain points
there was only just enough space for my horse's feet, and each of
my legs was dangling over a separate abyss. I sat motionless in my
saddle, as upright as if I had been balancing a chair on the end of
my nose. This pass, which took us a few minutes to traverse, struck
me as particularly long.
When I quietly reflect on this incredible ascent, I am lost in
surprise, as at the remembrance of some incoherent dream. We
passed over spots where a goat would have hesitated to set its
foot, and scaled precipices so steep that the ears of our horses
touched our chins. Our road lay between rocks and blocks of stone,
which threatened to fall down upon us every moment, and ran in
zigzags along the edge of the most frightful precipices. We took
advantage of every favourable opportunity, and although advancing
slowly we still advanced, gradually approaching the goal of our
ambition,--namely, the summit, that we had lost sight of since
we had been in the mountains, because each separate piece of
table-land hides the one above it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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