Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The worthy people were just going to sup. A wrinkled, bronzed,
and, so to speak, mummified old woman, whose skin formed, at all
her joints, large folds like a Hessian boot, was preparing a
gigantic _gaspacho_ in a red earthen pan. Five or six magnificent
greyhounds, with thin backs, broad chests, and splendid ears, and
who were worthy of being in the kennel of a king, followed the
old woman's movements with unflagging attention, and the most
melancholy look of admiration that can possibly be conceived. But
this delicious repast was not intended for them; in Andalusia it
is the men, and not the dogs, who eat soup made of bread-crusts
steeped in water. Some cats, whom the absence of ears and
tails--for in Spain these ornamental superfluities are always cut
off--cause to resemble Japanese monsters--were also watching these
savoury preparations, only at a greater distance. A plateful of
the said _gaspacho_, two slices of our own ham, and a few bunches
of grapes, of the colour of amber, composed our supper, which we
were obliged to defend from the greyhounds, who were encroachingly
familiar, and, under pretence of licking us, literally tore the
meat out of our mouths. We rose from our seats, and eat standing
up, with our plates in our hands, but the diabolical brutes got on
their hind legs, and, throwing their fore-paws over our shoulders,
were thus on a level with the coveted food. Even if they did not
actually carry it off, they at least gave it two or three licks
with their tongues, and thus contrived to obtain the first taste
of its flavour. It appeared to us that these greyhounds must
have been descended in a right line from the famous dog, whose
history Cervantes, however, has not written in his Dialogues. This
illustrious animal held the office of dish-washer in a Spanish
_fonda_, and when the girl was blamed because the plates were not
clean, she swore by everything she held holy, that they had been
washed in six waters _por siete Aguas_. _Siete Aguas_ was the name
of the dog, who was so called because he licked the plates so
scrupulously clean, that any one would have supposed that they had
been washed in six different waters; on the day in question he must
have performed his work in a slovenly manner. The greyhounds of the
farm certainly belonged to the same breed.
Our hosts gave us a young boy as guide, who was well acquainted
with the road, and who took us safely to Ecija, which we reached
about ten o'clock in the morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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