Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
La Carlotta, where we stopped for the night, is an unimportant
hamlet. The inn is an ancient convent, which had first been turned
into barracks, as is almost always the case in times of revolution,
military men feeling at their ease, and installing themselves in
buildings arranged for monastic life more easily than any other
class of persons. Long-arched cloisters formed a covered gallery
all round the four sides of the courtyard. In the middle of one of
the sides yawned the black mouth of an enormous and very deep well,
which promised the luxury of some very cold and very clear water.
On leaning over the edge, I saw that the interior was completely
lined with plants of the most beautiful green, that had sprung up
between the stones; and, indeed, to find any kind of verdure or
coolness, it was necessary to go and look into the wells, for the
heat was so great, that any one might have supposed it was caused
by a large fire in the immediate neighbourhood. The only thing
that can give the least idea of it is the temperature of those
hot-houses where tropical plants are reared. Even the air burnt
you, and ignited molecules seemed to be borne along in each gust
of wind. I endeavoured to go out and take a turn in the village,
but the stove-like vapour which greeted me the moment I had crossed
the threshold, caused me to turn back. Our supper consisted of
fowls cut to pieces and laid pell-mell on a bed of rice, as highly
flavoured with saffron as a Turkish pillau, with the addition of
a salad (_ensalada_) of green leaves in a deluge of vinegar and
water, dotted here and there with drops of oil, taken, doubtless,
from the lamp. After we had finished this sumptuous repast, we
were conducted to our rooms, which were, however, already so full,
that we sallied out to pass the rest of the night in the middle of
the courtyard, with our mattress wrapped round, and a chair turned
upside down instead of a pillow. There, at least, we were only
exposed to the mosquitos; by putting on our gloves, and covering
our faces with our handkerchiefs, we escaped with merely five or
six stings, which were simply painful, but not disgusting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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