Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The lower orders even believe that the Sultan of Constantinople
still pays a tribute to the King of Spain, in order that mass may
not be said in that part of the building especially dedicated to
the prophet. This chapel is ironically called by the devout, the
_Zancarron_, a term of contempt which signifies, "Ass's jawbone,
carrion."
The Mosque of Cordova is pierced with seven doors, which have
nothing ornamental about them; indeed its mode of construction
prevents their being so, and does not allow of the majestic portals
imperiously required by the unvarying plan of Roman-catholic
cathedrals; there is nothing in its external appearance to prepare
your mind for the admirable spectacle which awaits you. We will
pass, if you please, through the _patio de los naranjeros_,
an immense and magnificent courtyard planted with monster
orange-trees, that were contemporaries of the Moorish kings, and
surrounded by long arched galleries, paved with marble flags. On
one side rises a very mediocre spire, which is a clumsy imitation
of the Giralda, as we were afterwards enabled to see, at Seville.
There is said to be an immense cistern under the pavement of the
courtyard. In the time of the Ommyades, you entered at once from
the _patio de los naranjeros_ into the Mosque itself, for the
frightful wall which now breaks the perspective on this side, was
not built until a more recent period.
I can best convey an idea of this strange edifice, by saying that
it resembles a large esplanade enclosed by walls and planted with
columns in quincuncial order. The esplanade is four hundred and
twenty feet broad, and four hundred and forty long. The number of
the columns amounts to eight hundred and sixty, which is, it is
said, only half the number in the first mosque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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