Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The said shoes, which are generally of satin, hardly cover their
toes, and appear to have no heels, the latter being covered with
a small piece of ribbon, of the same colour as the stocking. A
little French girl, seven or eight years old, could not put on the
shoe of an Andalusian of twenty. Accordingly, there is no end to
their jokes about the feet and shoes of the ladies of the north. "A
boat with six rowers, to row about in the Guadalquiver, was made
out of the ball shoe of a German lady." "The wooden stirrups of
the _picadores_ might do for shoes for an English beauty,"--and a
thousand other _andulazades_ of the same kind. I defended, as well
as I could, the feet of our fair Parisians, but I only met with
incredulous listeners. Unfortunately, the women of Seville have
only remained Spanish as far as the head and feet, the mantilla and
the shoe, are concerned; the coloured gowns _à la Française_ are
beginning to obtain the superiority over the national robe. The
men are dressed like plates of fashions. There are some, however,
who wear small white dimity jackets, trousers to correspond, a
red sash, and Andalusian hat; but this is rare, and, besides, the
costume is not very picturesque.
The favourite walks are the _Alameda del Duque_, where the audience
stroll during the time between the acts at the theatre, which is
close at hand: and also, more especially, the Cristina. It is a
most charming thing to see, between seven and eight o'clock in the
evening, all the beauties of Seville, in little groups of three or
four, parading up and down here, and showing themselves off to the
best advantage, accompanied by their lovers, present or future.
They have something peculiarly nimble, active, and brisk about
them, and prance along, rather than walk. The celerity with which
the fan is opened and shut in their hands, the searching power of
their glance, the assurance of their bearing, and the undulating
suppleness of their figure, give them a physiognomy which is
especially their own. There may be women in England, France, and
Italy, of a more perfect and regular style of beauty, but there are
assuredly none who are prettier or more piquant. They possess in
a high degree the quality called by Spaniards _la sal_, and which
is some thing that it is difficult to explain to Frenchmen. It is
a mixture of nonchalance, vivacity, bold repartees, and infantine
manners; a grace, a pungency, a _ragoût_, as painters express
it, which may be found without beauty, and which is frequently
preferred to it. Thus, a person says to a woman in Spain, "How
salt, _salada_, you are!" and there is no other compliment like
that one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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