Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Being unable to mention everything, I will confine myself to
mentioning the _Saint Anthony of Padua_, by Murillo, which
ornaments the chapel of the baptistry. Never was the magic of
painting carried to a greater length. The saint is kneeling in a
state of ecstasy in the middle of his cell, all the poor details of
which are rendered with that vigorous reality which characterises
the Spanish school. Through the half-open door is seen one of those
long, white, arched cloisters, so favourable to reverie. The upper
portion of the picture, which is inundated with white, transparent,
vapoury light, is occupied by groups of angels, of the most truly
ideal beauty. Attracted by the force of his prayers, the infant
Jesus is descending from cloud to cloud, to place himself between
the arms of the saint, whose head is surrounded by rays of glory,
and who is leaning back in a fit of celestial delight. I think that
this divine picture is superior to that of _Saint Elizabeth of
Hungary_ in the Academy of Madrid, superior to _Moses_, superior
to all the _Virgins_ and _Children_ by the same master, however
beautiful and pure they may be. Whoever has not seen the _Saint
Anthony of Padua_, does not know the finest production of the
Sevillian painter; he is like those who fancy they know Rubens,
and have never beheld the Antwerp _Magdalene_.
Every style of architecture is to found in the Cathedral of
Seville. The severe gothic, the style of the renaissance, that
which the Spaniards term _plateresco_, or jewellery-work, and
which is distinguished by a profusion of incredible ornaments and
arabesques, the rococo, the Greek and Roman styles, are all there
without a single exception, for each age has built its chapel or
_retablo_, after its own peculiar taste, and even now the edifice
is not completely finished. Many of the statues which fill the
niches of the portals, and represent patriarchs, apostles, saints,
and archangels, are made of baked earth only, and placed there
temporarily. On the same side as the courtyard _de los Naranjeros_,
on the top of the unfinished portal, rises the iron crane, as
a symbol that the edifice is not yet terminated, and that the
works will be resumed at some future period. This kind of gallows
is also to be seen on the summit of the church at Beauvais, but
when will the day come, when the weight of a stone slowly drawn
up through the air by the workmen returned to their work, shall
cause its pulley, that has for ages been rusting away, once more
to creak beneath its load? Never, perhaps; for the ascensional
movement of Catholicism has stopped, and the sap which caused
this efflorescence of cathedrals to shoot up from the ground, no
longer rises from the trunk into the branches. Faith, which doubts
nothing, wrote the first strophes of all these great poems of
stone and granite; Reason, which doubts everything, has not dared
to finish them. The architects of the Middle Ages were a race of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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