Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The Alcazar, or ancient palace of the Moorish kings, is very fine
and quite worthy of its reputation, but it does not surprise
any one who has seen the Alhambra at Granada. You meet the same
small white marble columns, the painted and gilt capitals, the
heart-shaped arcades, the panels with mottoes from the Koran
entwined with arabesques, the doors of larch and cedar wood, the
stalactite cupolas, and the fountains ornamented with carving,
which may vary in appearance, but of whose endless details and
minute delicacy no description can convey an idea. The Hall of
Ambassadors, the magnificent doors of which have been preserved in
all their integrity, is perhaps more beautiful and rich than that
at Granada; unfortunately, the authorities have hit upon the idea
of hanging between the slender columns which support the roof, a
series of portraits of the kings of Spain from the most ancient
times of the monarchy down to the present day. Nothing could be
more ridiculous. The old kings, with their breastplates and iron
crowns, manage to make a respectable appearance, but the more
modern ones, with their powdered hair and uniforms produce a most
grotesque effect. I shall never forget a certain queen with a pair
of spectacles on her nose and a small dog upon her knees; she must
feel very much out of her element. The baths, named after Maria
Pedrilla, the mistress of the king, Don Pedro, who resided in the
Alcazar, are still in the same state as in the time of the Arabs.
The vaulted roof of the bath-room has not undergone the slightest
alteration. Charles V. has left far too many marks of his presence
in the Alcazar of Seville, as he did in the Alhambra of Granada.
This mania of building one palace in another is as frequent as it
is deplorable; we must for ever regret the number of historical
monuments it has destroyed, to substitute insignificant edifices
in their stead. The Alcazar contains gardens laid out in the old
French style, with yew-trees tortured into the strangest shapes
imaginable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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