Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The wind was, indeed, blowing with frightful violence; the rigging
quivered like the strings of a fiddle under the bow of a frantic
player; the flag kept flapping with a kind of harsh sound, and its
bunting threatened every moment to be rent into shreds and fly
away to sea; the blocks creaked, groaned, and whistled, sometimes
emitting shrill cries, which seemed to proceed from the breast of
some human being: two or three sailors who had been mast-headed,
for some offence or other, had all the trouble in the world to
prevent themselves from being blown away.
All this did not prevent our making an excellent dinner, washed
down with the best wines, and seasoned with the most agreeable
conversation, as well as, by the bye, with the most diabolical
Indian spices, which would cause even a person afflicted with
hydrophobia to drink. The next day, as the weather was still so bad
that it was impossible to send a boat to fetch fresh provisions
from the land, our dinner was no less delicate; but it was rather
remarkable from the fact of every dish being rather ancient in
date. We had green peas of 1836, fresh butter of 1835, and cream
of 1834; all preserved in a miraculous fashion. The bad weather
lasted for two days, during which time I walked up and down the
deck, never weary of admiring the scrupulous cleanliness, which
would have done honour to a Dutch housewife; the finish of the
details, and the talent visible in the arrangement of that prodigy
of the human mind which is simply termed a vessel. The brass of the
carronades glittered like gold, and the planks were as polished as
the finest satin-wood furniture. Every morning the crew have to
dress the vessel for the day; and though the rain were to come down
like a waterspout, the deck would be washed, inundated, sponged,
and swabbed all the same.
At the expiration of two days, the wind fell, and we were conveyed
on shore in a boat manned by ten rowers.
My black coat, however, which was strongly impregnated with
sea-water, obstinately refused, when dry, to resume its former
elasticity, and was ever after spangled with brilliant crystal-like
particles, and as stiff as a salted cod.
The aspect of Cadiz from the sea is charming. When the town is seen
thus, with its buildings of dazzling white between the azure of
the sea and the azure of the sky, you might almost mistake it for
an immense crown of silver filigree work; while the dome of the
cathedral, which is painted yellow, appears to be a silver-gilt
tiara placed in the middle. The flower-pots, volutes, and turrets,
which crown the houses, give their outlines an infinite variety.
Byron has characterised the physiognomy of Cadiz in a marvellous
manner, and with a single touch:
"Fair Cadiz, rising from the dark blue sea!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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