Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I had a letter of introduction to the commander of the French
brig-of-war _Le Voltigeur_, then stationed in Cadiz Roads. On my
presenting it, Monsieur Lebarbier de Linan politely invited me,
and two other gentlemen, to dine on board his vessel, the next
day about five o'clock. At four o'clock we were on the mole,
looking out for a bark and a boatman to take us from the quay to
the vessel, which it required fifteen or twenty minutes, at most,
to reach. I was very much astonished at the boatman's demanding
a douro instead of a piacetta which was the ordinary fare. In my
ignorance of nautical matters, seeing the sky perfectly clear
and the sun shining as on the first day of the creation, I very
innocently imagined that the weather was fine. Such was my
conviction. The weather was, on the contrary, atrocious, as I did
not fail to perceive at the very first broadsides we encountered.
There was a short, chopping sea, that was frightfully rough, while
the wind was sufficient to blow our heads off our shoulders. We
were tossed about as if we had been in a nutshell, and shipped
water every instant. At the expiration of a few minutes we were
enjoying a foot-bath, which threatened to become very speedily a
hip-bath. The foam of the waves entered between my neck and the
collar of my coat, and trickled down my back. The skipper and his
two companions were swearing, vociferating and snatching the sheets
and the helm out of each other's hands. One wanted this thing and
the other that, and there was one moment when they were on the
point of coming to fisticuffs. Our situation at last became so
critical that one of them began to mumble the end of a prayer to
some saint or other. Luckily we were now near the brig, that was
calmly riding at anchor, and apparently looking down with an air
of contemptuous pity on the convulsive evolutions of our little
skiff. At length we came alongside, and it took us more than ten
minutes ere we could succeed in catching hold of the man-ropes
and scramble upon deck. "This is what I call being courageous and
punctual," said the commander, with a smile, on seeing us climb up
out the gangway, dripping with water, and with our hair streaming
about us, like the beard of some marine deity. He then gave each of
us a pair of trousers, a shirt, a waistcoat--in fact, a complete
suit. "This will teach you," he continued afterwards, "to put faith
in the descriptions of poets. You thought that every tempest must
necessarily be accompanied with thunder, and waves mingling their
foam with the clouds, and rain, and lightning darting through the
murky darkness. Undeceive yourselves; in all probability, I shall
not be able to send you on shore for two or three days."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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