Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The aspect of Gibraltar completely confuses all your ideas:
you no longer know where you are, nor what you see. Just fancy
an immense rock, or, rather, a mountain, fifteen hundred feet
high, rising suddenly and bluffly from the midst of the waves,
and based on a tract of ground so flat and level that you can
scarcely perceive it. Nothing prepares you for it, nothing
accounts for its being there; it is connected with no chain
of mountains; but it is a monstrous monolith thrown down from
heaven, the corner of some planet broken off during a battle of
the stars--a fragment of some broken world. Who placed it in this
position? God and Eternity alone know. What adds still more to
the singular effect of this inexplicable rock is its form. It
looks like an enormous, prodigious, and gigantic Sphinx, such
as Titans might have sculptured, and compared to which, the
flat-nosed monsters of Carnac and Giseh are but what a mouse is
in comparison with an elephant. The outspread paws form what is
called Europa Point; the head, which is somewhat truncated, is
turned towards Africa, which it seems to look at with profound and
dreamy attention. What thoughts can this mountain be revolving
in its mind, in this sly meditative attitude? What enigma is it
about to propose, or endeavouring to solve? The shoulders, loins,
and hind-quarters stretch towards Spain in nonchalant folds and
beautifully undulating lines, like those of a lion in a state of
repose. The town is situated at the bottom of the rock, and is
almost imperceptible, being a wretched detail lost in the general
mass. The three-deckers at anchor in the bay look like German
toys--little miniature models of ships, such as are sold in seaport
towns--and the smaller craft seem to be flies drowning in milk;
even the fortifications are not apparent. The mountain, however, is
hollowed out, mined and excavated in every direction; its belly is
full of cannons, howitzers, and mortars; it is absolutely crammed
with warlike stores. It is an example of the luxury and coquetry
of the Impregnables. But all this offers nothing to the eye, save
a few almost imperceptible lines, which are confounded with the
wrinkles on the face of the rock, and a few holes through which
pieces of artillery furtively thrust their brazen mouths. In the
Middle Ages, Gibraltar would have bristled with donjons, towers,
turrets, and battlements; instead of taking up its position below,
the fortress would have scaled the mountain, and perched itself,
like an eagle's nest, upon the highest peak. The present batteries
sweep the sea, which is so narrow in this part, and render it
almost impossible for a vessel to force a passage. Gibraltar was
called by the Arabs, Giblaltah,--that is to say, the _Mountain of
the Entrance_; and never was a name more appropriate. Its ancient
name was Calpe. Abyla, now Ape's Hill, is on the other side of the
straits in Africa, close to Ceuta, a Spanish possession, the Brest
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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