Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The reader has seen, no doubt, in the Spanish Gallery at Paris,
the portrait of El Greco's daughter; a magnificent head that no
master would disown. It enables us to form an opinion as to what
an admirable painter Domenico Theotocopuli must have been when he
was in his right senses. It appears that his constant wish to avoid
any resemblance to Titian, whose scholar he is said to have been,
troubled his understanding, and led him to adopt an extravagance
and capriciousness of style, that allowed the magnificent faculties
with which nature had endowed him to gleam forth only at rare
intervals. Besides being a painter, El Greco was also an architect
and a sculptor,--a sublime union, a triangle of light, which is
often met with in the highest region of art.
The walls of this apartment are covered with panelled wainscoting,
with florid and festooned columns of the greatest richness. Above
the wainscoting there is a row of Venice mirrors; for what purpose
they are placed there, unless it is simply for ornament, I am at a
loss to say, as they are hung too high for any one to see himself
in them. Above the mirrors are ranged, in chronological order,--the
most ancient touching the ceiling,--the portraits of all the
bishops of Burgos, down from the very first, to the prelate who now
occupies the see. These portraits, although in oil-colours, look
like crayon drawings, or sketches in distemper. This is occasioned
by the practice they have in Spain of never varnishing their
pictures, a want of precaution which has been the cause of a great
number of very valuable masterpieces having been destroyed by the
damp. Although most of these portraits present a tolerably imposing
appearance, they are not first-rate paintings; besides, they are
hung too high for any one to form a just opinion of the merit of
the execution. The middle of the room is occupied by an immense
side-board and enormous baskets, made of spartum, in which the
church ornaments and sacred vessels are kept. Under two glass cases
are preserved, as curiosities, two coral trees, whose branches,
however, are far less complicated than the smallest arabesque in
the cathedral. The door is ornamented with the arms of Burgos in
relief, sprinkled with small crosses, gules.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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