Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
On leaving the room of Juan Cuchiller, you enter another which
is decorated in a very picturesque manner. The walls are
wainscoted with oak and hung with red tapestry, while the ceiling
is _artesonado_, and produces a most pleasing effect. There is
a "Nativity" by Murillo, a "Conception," and a figure of "Our
Saviour" in flowing robes, all exceedingly well painted.
The cloisters are filled with tombs, most of which are enclosed by
strong iron railings placed very close together. These tombs, all
of them belonging to various illustrious personages, are placed
in recesses hollowed out in the thickness of the wall; they are
covered with armorial bearings and decorated with sculpture. On one
of them I observed an excessively beautiful group of the Virgin
Mary and Our Saviour holding a book in his hand, as well as a most
strange and surprising production of the imagination, representing
a fanciful monster, half animal, half arabesque. On all these tombs
are stretched statues the size of life, of knights in armour, or
bishops in full episcopal costume; so truthful are the attitudes
in which they are lying, and so minute are the details, that any
one looking at them through the iron railings might almost mistake
these statues for the persons they represent.
On the jamb of a door, I remarked as I passed along, a charming
little statue of the Virgin, executed in the most delicious manner
and conceived with extraordinary boldness. Instead of the contrite
and modest air that is generally given to the statues and paintings
of the Blessed Virgin, the sculptor has represented her with a
mixed expression of voluptuousness and ecstasy, and intoxicated
with all the pleasure of a woman in the act of conceiving a God.
She is standing up with her head thrown backwards, and seems to
be inhaling with her whole soul and body, and also with the most
original union of passion and purity, the ray of flame which is
breathed upon her by the symbolical dove. It was a difficult task
to produce any novelty in the treatment of a subject that had been
so often used, but for genius nothing is too common.
A detailed description of these cloisters would require a whole
chapter to itself; but, on account of my limited space and the
short time that was at my disposal, the reader will excuse me for
merely mentioning them in this cursory manner, and re-entering the
church, where we will take at hazard, without choice or preference,
the first _chefs-d'œuvre_ we may happen to see on our right and
left; for they are all beautiful and all admirable, and those which
we do not mention are at the least quite as valuable as the rest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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