Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The Chapel of Santa Tecla is the strangest structure imaginable.
The object both of architect and sculptor seems to have been to
crowd as many ornaments as possible into the least space, and
they have completely succeeded; for I defy the greatest advocate
of ornament to find space enough in the whole chapel for a single
rose or a single flower more. It is the most wonderful and most
charming specimen of the richest description of bad taste. It is
one mass of twisted spiral columns, surrounded by vine-shoots, of
endless volutes, of cherubim's heads and shoulders with a pair of
wings sticking out like the ends of a neck-tie, of large masses of
clouds, of flames rising from censers and blown about by the wind,
of rays spread out in the shape of a fan, and of endive-plants
in full bloom and most luxuriant growth, all gilt and painted
in natural colours with the pencil of a miniature-painter. The
flower-work of the drapery is imitated thread for thread, and point
for point, with frightful accuracy. Santa Tecla, who is tied to the
stake with the flames rising around her on all sides, and a number
of Saracens in extravagant costumes exciting them, is represented
as raising towards Heaven her beautiful enamel eyes, and holding
in her flesh-coloured hand a large holly-branch, twisted after the
usual Spanish fashion. The roof is ornamented in the same style.
The rest of the chapel is occupied by other altars, which, although
smaller, are quite as elaborate as that which we have described.
But the whole fabric is deficient in the peculiar delicacy of
Gothic art, as well as in the charming characteristics of the
period of the Renaissance; richness is substituted for purity of
outline; it is still very beautiful, however, like everything
carried to excess, but yet complete in its own peculiar style.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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