Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
so loudly that he completely drowned their voices. I may mention
that the prompter is protected by a sort of tin shell, arched
like the roof of an oven, to shield him against the _patatas_,
_manzanas_, and _cascaras de naranja_--potatoes, apples, and
orange-peel--with which the Spanish public, as impatient a public
as ever existed, never fails to bombard those actors who displease
them. Each person brings his store of projectiles in his pocket: if
the actors play well, the various vegetables return to the saucepan
and serve to augment the _puchero_.
For one moment, we thought we had at length discovered the true
type of a Spanish beauty in one of the three sultanas--large,
arched, black eyebrows, sharp nose, a long oval face, and red lips;
but an obliging neighbour informed us that she was a young French
girl.
Before leaving Burgos, we paid a visit to the Cartuja de
Miraflores, situated at half a league from the town. A few poor
old decrepit monks have been allowed to await their death there.
Spain has lost a great deal of its romantic character by the
suppression of the monks, and I do not see that it has gained much
in other respects. A number of magnificent edifices, which can
never be replaced, and which were formerly preserved in all their
integrity, will fall into a state of dilapidation, and crumble
to the ground, adding their ruins to those which are already so
common in this unhappy country; and thus unheard-of treasures in
the way of statues, pictures, and objects of art of all kinds, will
be lost, without any one deriving the least advantage. It strikes
me that our Revolution might be imitated in other things than its
stupid Vandalism. Murder each other if you will, for the ideas you
imagine that you possess; fatten with your bodies the meagre plains
ravaged by war--that is all very well; but the stone, the marble
and the bronze touched by genius, are sacred--at least spare them.
In two thousand years your civil dissensions will all be forgotten,
and the future will only know that you were once a great people by
some marvellous fragments dug from out a heap of ruins.
The Cartuja is situated upon a hill. Its exterior is austere and
simple, consisting of grey stones and a tile roof, that says
nothing to the eyes, but everything to the imagination. In the
interior are long, cool, silent cloisters, with whitewashed walls,
and a number of doors leading to the various cells, and windows
with leaden casements, containing different religious subjects on
stained glass, especially a remarkable composition representing the
Ascension. The body of our Saviour has already disappeared; there
is nothing left but his feet, the marks of which are seen on a rock
which is surrounded by pious personages lost in admiration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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