Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
But though the dwelling of man is poor, that of God is rich. In
the middle of the nave are placed the tombs of Don Juan II. and
Queen Isabella, his wife. The spectator is lost in astonishment
at the fact of human patience ever having completed such a work.
Sixteen lions, two at each angle, support eight shields with the
royal arms, and serve as base to the structure. Add to these a
proportionate number of virtues, allegorical figures, apostles,
and evangelists, imagine a countless number of branches, birds,
animals, scrolls of arabesque and foliage, twisting and twining
in every direction, and you will yet have but a feeble notion of
this prodigious masterpiece. The crowned statues of the king and
queen are lying at full length on the top of the tomb. The king is
holding his sceptre in his hand, and is enveloped in a long robe,
guilloched and figured with the most incredible delicacy.
The tomb of the Infante Alonzo is on the left-hand side of the
altar. The Infante is represented kneeling before a fall-stool. A
vine, with open spaces, in which little children gathering grapes
are suspended, creeps, in festoons of the most capricious and
endless variety around the Gothic arch that serves as a framework
to the composition, half buried in the thickness of the wall. These
marvellous monuments are in alabaster, and are due to the chisel of
Gil de Siloe, who also executed the sculptures for the high altar.
To the right and left of the latter, which is a most beautiful
work of art, are two open doors, through which you perceive two
Carthusian friars in the white robe of their order, standing
motionless before you. At first sight you are inclined to take
these two figures, which are probably by Diego de Leyva, for living
beings. The general decoration of the building is completed by
stalls in the Berruguete style, and it is a matter of astonishment
for the visitor to find all these wonders in so deserted a spot.
From the top of the hill we were shown, in the distance, San Pedro
de Cardeña, which contains the tomb of the Cid and of his wife,
Doña Ximena. By the way, in connexion with this tomb there is a
strange anecdote told, which I will here relate, without, however,
answering for the truth of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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