Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
_El Correo Real_ in which we quitted Burgos merits a particular
description. Just fancy an antediluvian vehicle, of which I should
say that the model, long since discarded, could at present only be
found in the fossil remains of Spain; immense bell-shaped wheels,
with very thin spokes, placed considerably behind the frame,
which had been painted red, somewhere about the time of Isabella
the Catholic; an extravagant body, full of all sorts of crooked
windows, and lined in the inside with small satin cushions, which
may, at some remote period, have been rose-coloured; and the
whole interior quilted and decorated with a kind of silk that was
once, probably, of various colours. This respectable conveyance
was suspended by the aid of ropes, and bound together in several
suspicious-looking places with thin cords made of spartum. To
this precious machine was added a team of mules of a reasonable
length, with an assortment of postilions, and a _mayoral_ clad in
an Astracan lambs-wool waistcoat, and a pair of sheepskin trousers
which looked tremendously Muscovitish. When all our preparations
were completed, we set off in the midst of a whirlwind of cries
and oaths, accompanied by a due proportion of whipping. We went
at a most terrific pace, and literally flew over the ground, the
vague outlines of the objects to our right and left flitting past
us with phantasmagorical rapidity. I never saw mules more fiery,
more restive, and more wild; every time we stopped, a whole army
of _muchachos_ was requisite to harness one to the coach. The
diabolical animals came out of their stables on their hind legs;
and it was only by the instrumentality of a bunch of postilions
hanging on the halter of each one, that we succeeded in again
reducing them to the state of quadrupeds. I think that it was
the idea of the food that awaited them at the next _venta_--for
they were frightfully thin--which filled them with this fiendlike
impetuosity. On leaving one small village, they commenced kicking
and capering about in such a fashion that their legs got entangled
in the traces; whereupon they were belaboured with a shower of
blows and kicks which must be seen to be believed. The whole team
fell down, and an unfortunate postilion, who was mounted on a
horse which in all probability had never before been in harness,
was dragged from beneath this heap of animals, almost as flat as a
pancake and bleeding from the nose. His sweetheart, who had come to
see him off, began shrieking enough to break any person's heart; I
should never have thought that such shrieks could proceed from a
human breast. The ropes were at last disentangled, and the mules
set upon their feet again. Another postilion took the place of the
wounded man, and we set off with a velocity which I should say
could not be surpassed. The country through which we passed had a
strange, savage look; it consisted of immense arid plains without a
single tree to break their uniformity, and terminated by mountains
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