Madrid, like Rome, is surrounded by a desert; it is impossible to convey an idea of its aridity and desolation. There is not a tree, a drop of water, a green plant, or the least appearance of humidity; nothing but yellow sand and iron-grey rocks; and when you leave the mountain, you do not find even rocks, but large stones. From time to time you perceive a dusty _venta_, a cork-coloured spire, just showing its nose on the horizon, large melancholy-looking oxen dragging along one of the cars we have already described; a countryman on horseback, or on a mule, with a fierce expression of face, a carbine at his saddle-bow, and a sombrero slouched over his eyes, or long strings of whity-brown asses, carrying chopped straw, which is corded up with a network of small ropes, and that is all. The ass which walks first, the _coronel_, has always a small feather or rosette, indicating his superiority in the hierarchy of the long-eared tribe. At the expiration of a few hours, which our impatience to reach our destination caused to appear still longer than they really were, we at last perceived Madrid with tolerable distinctness. A few minutes afterwards we entered the Spanish capital by the _Puerta de Hierro_, and drove along an avenue planted with dwarf pollards and bordered by small brick towers which serve to raise water. Talking of water, although the transition is not very well timed, I forgot to mention that we crossed the Manzanares by means of a bridge that was worthy of a river of a more serious description; we then passed by the Queen's Palace, one of those edifices which people are pleased to designate as tasty. The immense terraces on which it is raised give it rather a grand appearance. After having undergone the visit of the custom-house officials, we proceeded to take up our quarters in the immediate vicinity of the _Calle d'Alcala_ and of the _Prado_; the name of our street was the _Calle del Caballero de Gracia_, and our hotel was called _La Fonda de la Amistad_, where Madame Espartero, Duchess de la Vittoria, happened at that time to be staying. The first thing we did was to despatch Manuel, our temporary servant, a most ardent _aficionado_ and tauromachist, to procure us tickets for the next bull-fight. CHAPTER VI. MADRID. Bull-fights--The Arena--Calesins--Espadas, Chulos, Banderilleros, and Picadores Sevilla the Picador--La Estocada a Vuela Pies. We were obliged to wait two days. Never did two days appear so long to me, and in order to overcome my impatience, I read over more than ten times the bills posted up at the corners of the principal streets. These bills promised wonders; they announced eight bulls from the most famous pasturages; the _picadores_, Sevilla and Antonio Rodriguez; and the _espadas_, Juan Pastor, also called _El Barbero_, and Guillen; they wound up by prohibiting the public from throwing into the arena orange-peel or any other projectile capable of injuring the combatants.