From Madrid we journeyed to San Sebastian, where we visited the King's
summer palace, and saw his Majesty. We happened here on a Sunday, and
we did not miss the opportunity of seeing another bull fight.
San Sebastian is the most fashionable watering-place in Spain and
there all the nobles and wealthy people of Portugal and Spain spend the
hot season. Here we spent several days in preparing for our journey
on foot across the Pyrenees Mountains. I had always wanted to cross
the Alps or Pyrenees on foot, so when the opportunity was presented, I
surely was not going to let it go by.
Securing heavy walking shoes, suitable clothing, heavy walking sticks,
we boarded the train at San Sebastian and alighted at the foot of the
hills, where the road starts its winding way across the rugged slopes.
Our only arms consisted of a couple of daggers, which we purchased at
Toledo and a thirty-eight Colt's revolver.
These lofty mountains and rugged foothills are inhabited by a lawless
and murderous set of treacherous Spaniards, who strike whenever they
have an opportunity. Not heeding wild stories, we set out upon a
journey calculated to test to the utmost the metal of your companion
and one's endurance.
The first day carried us into the heart of the wilderness, where on
every side one could see nothing but lofty crags covered with large
boulders and shaggy grass.
[Illustration: "The First Day carried us into the Heart of the
Wilderness where on Every Side one could see Nothing but Lofty Crags."
(_Wanderlust._)]
We employed a guide for a day to conduct us safely to the beaten trail,
and four days later we were safely settled in the little village of
Blanto, on the frontier of France.
Although we had put up with a great many hardships, we enjoyed our
tramp, and we only wished our journey had occupied twenty days instead
of five, for we felt better each succeeding day, tramping over the
rocky pathways. Two nights were spent on the ground under the shadow
of the cork trees, while the other nights were spent in huts along the
way.
During the tramp our food consisted, principally, of bread, goat's milk
and fruit.
One night while sleeping out we were alarmed by the approach of some
sort of big animal, which persisted on making our acquaintance. By
firing the revolver several times we succeeded in frightening it away,
after which we went back to sleep, only to be awakened in the early
morning by a Spanish goat herder, who insisted that we had killed one
of his dogs. The dead animal proved to be our visitor of the previous
night.
At Blanto we made preparation for our railway journey to Paris.
August found us in the gay city of Paris, where we chanced to meet
again two of our friends of the cattle boat, Roy Saunders and Philip
McDuff.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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