The September morning was crystal-clear. The old fortifications at St.
Malo, violet in shadow, lay wrapped in sunlight as from the crest of
the hill we turned for a farewell glimpse of Dinard and the sea, before
turning eastward on our long proposed trip to some Brittany hospitals.
Our motor was packed in every corner with hospital supplies—tins of
ether, rolls of absorbent cotton, hundreds of compresses and bandages,
surgical supplies and instruments, cigars, cigarettes, chocolate,
hospital-shirts and slippers, sponges, socks—all we could think of,
capable of mending the broken bodies or healing the spirits of those
brave poilus we were to visit in various hospitals during the next few
days.
The motor looked top-heavy, with great hampers strapped on its roof,
as we (my husband, the singer and I) squeezed ourselves in between the
bulky supplies, but in these days of almost priceless tires and rare
gasoline one must manage with little personal pretentions to comfort.
The first place of call was the Chateau of Combourg. As we bowled along
roads now much in need of repair after three years of forced neglect,
we recalled something of its history.
The vast pile, buried in its own forests, was built, before the Norman
Conquest, of immense blocks of granite hewn from nearby quarries; its
five great towers, with deep slate roofs, ornamented with forged iron
"grilles" and weathervanes, its massive keep, its crenelated walls
and outlying bastions, have apparently withstood the vicissitudes
of centuries. Wars, revolution, fire, siege, storms, have left it
unharmed. As we approached, the castle loomed up above the surrounding
groves, looking much as it must have appeared to the Crusaders as they
left its doors for the Holy Land.
We rolled through a sordid village lying at its base, and soon stopped
before an iron gate in a high stone wall for the concierge to open, and
then a lovely scene met our eyes.
Great avenues of oaks and chestnuts stretched in all directions,
interspersed with long stretches of greensward and clumps of bushes. It
required slight imagination to see Robin Hood and his men, or catch a
glimpse of them fleeting through the sun-wrapped distance—or hear their
horns sounding in the forest.
The young chatelaine was awaiting us at the head of a great flight
of stone steps, "Tescalier d'honneur," large and broad enough for a
regiment to ascend. The drawbridge and moat, formerly occupying this
side, were removed by order of Cardinal Richelieu, who, fearing the
belligerent spirit of the Brittany nobles, and determined to destroy
their feudal privileges for all time, conceived the idea of turning
their castle-fortresses into harmless country-houses, and they,
themselves, into extravagant courtiers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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