War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable GrowersFree, Montague
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War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable Growers
Free, Montague
Vegetable gardening
When planning your garden you must take into consideration the sunshine
it receives, and if part of it is shaded reserve that part for those
crops that will endure shade. If there is any variation in the nature of
the soil, whether in regard to its physical condition, fertility, or
wetness, you should place the crops accordingly.
As a general rule the rows should run north and south, as by this plan
each row receives its share of sunlight. If for any reason this is not
practicable, put the tall-growing crops at the north end of the plot, so
that they do not shade the smaller kinds. The perennial crops, like
asparagus and rhubarb, are best placed at one end or side of the plot so
that they are not in the way when digging or plowing is being done. It
makes a better-looking plot if those vegetables which are planted the
same distance apart are grouped together.
Plan to have the ground occupied for the whole season. Many vegetables
take a comparatively short time in which to mature, and these can be
removed when harvested and the ground occupied by another crop. Thus
peas can be followed by cauliflower or cabbage, early beets by beans,
lettuce by tomato, and so on. Find out the average number of
growing-days in your locality and consult the table in the Appendix
giving the number of days required to bring the various crops to
maturity.
When planning for succession vegetables, have some regard to crop
rotation. That is to say, if the ground in the early part of the season
has been occupied by a leaf crop, follow it by a fruit crop, or _vice
versa_. Early cabbage followed by beans may be cited as an example.
Similarly, root crops may be followed by leaf crops, as early carrots
and fall spinach.
Another important reason for crop rotation is that it lessens the danger
of loss from disease. Many of the fungous diseases of plants are carried
over from year to year in the soil. Some of them are able to live on
only one particular host plant, and if that crop is not grown in the
soil where the fungus is hibernating the disease ultimately dies out
through lack of food.
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