War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable Growers — John Shaqi
War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable GrowersFree, Montague
History
War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable Growers
Free, Montague
Vegetable gardening
Pole beans climb by means of twining, and poles from six to eight feet
high and about two inches in diameter are usually supplied for them.
These poles are inserted in the ground by first making a hole with a
crowbar. Another method of supporting beans is by means of V-shaped
frames about six feet high and three feet wide at the bottom. They can
be made of light lumber, such as three by one or two by two inch rough
pine. These are spaced from eight to ten feet apart and connected by
thin strips of lumber along the top and along the bases. Strings are
fastened on one of the base strips, carried over the top and fastened to
the base strip on the other side. These strings should be from six to
nine inches apart. The beans are planted so that there is one bean-plant
to each string.
Tomatoes may be left to grow naturally, in which case they sprawl over
the ground and much fruit is spoiled by coming in contact with the
earth, or they may be staked. If grown to a single stem each plant will
need a stout stake to which it may be attached by tying with pieces of
cloth or tape about an inch wide. If twine were used it would probably
cut into and injure the soft stems. Another way of supporting tomatoes
is to allow all the shoots to grow at will, but to prevent them from
falling on the ground by placing around each plant three or four stakes
connected with barrel hoops or with twine.
XI
INSECT ENEMIES
To be successful in controlling insect pests, preventive or remedial
measures must be applied early. If spraying is deferred until insects
infest the plants in large numbers, great difficulty is experienced in
getting rid of them. It is emphatically much easier to kill a few
insects than a whole host. If they are once allowed to obtain the upper
hand, the crop will be so much injured that it frequently will not pay
to attempt to save it.
The important point that must be grasped in connection with the control
of insect pests is that they may, from the point of view of the
gardener, be divided into two groups—“biting” insects and “sucking”
insects.
The biting insects _eat_ the leaves, roots, or stems of the plants
attacked, and their presence is usually obvious even to a casual
observer.
The sucking insects obtain their food, not by eating the leaves, but by
inserting their “beaks” into the plant tissue and sucking its juices.
Since it is not feasible to poison the sap of plants to kill the
insects, the best method is to spray them with what are known as
“contact” insecticides. These must be applied in such a way that they
actually come in contact with the insects. Soap solutions, kerosene
emulsion, and nicotine are the principal contact sprays.
Sometimes, instead of using sprays it is more convenient to use dry
insecticides in the form of powder. This is particularly the case when a
spray-pump is unavailable or the water supply not close at hand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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