War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable GrowersFree, Montague
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War Gardens: A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable Growers
Free, Montague
Vegetable gardening
Wheel-hoes varying in price from five to fifteen dollars—the price
depending on the size and number of attachments—are available for
expediting the work in large gardens. Some of these implements have
attachments so that they may be used for marking the rows, sowing seeds
in drills or hills, for raking, cultivating, and shallow plowing. These,
however, are for use on large areas by professional gardeners, or to
delight the connoisseur of tools.
To sum up—the tools that it is advisable for a beginner, with a garden
of moderate size, to buy are: a spading-fork, an iron rake, a six-inch
hoe (of either the scuffle or the ordinary variety), a one-quart
atomizer for applying spray fluids, and a watering-can. The cost of
these should not exceed three or four dollars.
Start out with a few essential tools and add others if you find that you
absolutely need them.
IV
THE SITE—THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION
Practically all of the vegetable crops require sunshine, and plenty of
it, in order to attain their full development. Therefore, in selecting
the location of your vegetable-garden (if it is possible to have any
choice) choose one open to sunshine and not hemmed in by tall buildings
which shut out the air. A location near big trees should be avoided, for
the trees not only shade the crops, but their wide-spreading roots also
rob the ground of food and moisture which the vegetables need. The ideal
location for a vegetable-garden is one open to the south and sheltered
from the north and west winds, but always with this provision—the soil
must be of a suitable nature.
This brings us to a consideration of one of the most important factors
in successful vegetable culture—that of the soil.
Soils vary a great deal in their physical characters and also in their
chemical composition.
Sandy soils quickly dry out and warm up in the spring, and in
consequence it is possible to prepare them for planting and produce
crops much earlier than is the case with heavier soils. For this reason
sandy soils are usually preferred by market gardeners, whose object is
to get their crops on the market as soon as possible. One great
objection to sandy soils is the rapidity with which they lose their
moisture by drainage and evaporation. They are frequently not naturally
fertile and it is necessary to apply large quantities of manure to make
them profitable. They are also subject to loss of fertility by leaching.
The way in which these disadvantages can be corrected will be told
later.
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