Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
Again: near the house in which we live a chronic fair goes on every
afternoon. Swing-boats, roundabouts, shooting-galleries, all the
various side-shows of an English country feast are here. Drinks,
ice-cream, and refreshments are no less to the fore. Music, that
monotonous braying music which always accompanies a merry-go-round,
goes on mechanically for many hours. Here Thomas Atkins gathers in
force. The thrifty Boche, in fact, has created the whole fair for his
entertainment at a modest price. It is characteristic of the race that
they not only accept the British Occupation with entire acquiescence,
but endeavour by every means in their power to turn it to good account.
Notices in English explain the nature of the side-shows. All prices are
marked in plain figures. Reprehensible though it may be, Gretchen not
infrequently is to be seen on the roundabouts and in the swing-boats
with the said Thomas. Picture-postcards, trinkets, souvenirs, are all
for sale. The shooting-galleries are crowded by soldiers still anxious
to let off their piece in a more harmless fashion than on the scarred
battle-line far away to the west. The Germans are out to amuse, the
English to be amused. Perfect good temper animates both buyers and
sellers. Introspection is hardly the hall-mark of the soldier in the
ranks, and the English lads who lounge about from booth to booth never
give a thought to the amazing situation in which they find themselves.
Many of them on demobilisation leave Cologne with real regret. It is
a clean, decent place, with more than decent beer. After all Fritz is
not such a bad fellow.... In the long and varied history of Britain’s
rule overseas has the Pax Britannica ever held sway under conditions
so strange as these? As darkness falls the fair is lit up by great
flares, and the scene grows more and more animated. Cologne, with
large resources in the shape of a cheap fuel supply in its immediate
neighbourhood, is well off both as regards light and heat. But at last
all is silent. Curfew has rung for the Germans, the Last Post for the
English. That desperate tune repeated for hours by the merry-go-round
is mercifully at an end for the night. To-morrow it will all begin
again, and so on day after day....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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