Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
A personal experience in this sense, at once exasperating and amusing,
overtook me on a journey between Cologne and Paris. I shared my
cabin in the sleeping-car with a German lady from Cassel, a typical
fair-haired, solid-looking Prussian. We exchanged the ordinary
politenesses of travellers thrown together on the road. I was
interested to hear that not only did the lady conduct a large business
enterprise in Cassel, but that she was a prop of the Volkspartei
and took a keen interest in politics. She spoke of Bolshevism and
the Red Peril with the fear and disgust always noticeable in the
German Bourgeoisie. The train by which we were travelling crossed the
devastated area in the night. Before going to bed my companion asked
me whether we should see anything of the ravaged districts. I replied
that I thought it would be too dark for any view of the country. It
happened, however, that I woke up at 3 A.M. and, drawing the blind,
found we were just moving out of Péronne. It was a grey July dawn,
with driving rain, which intensified the unspeakable desolation of the
Somme. Tragic beyond words were the massacred orchards. In some cases
the stumps of trees not wholly cut through were throwing up fresh
leaves in a painful effort after new life. My heart was stirred at the
thought of my Prussian stable companion slumbering peacefully in the
bunk above. She had wanted to see devastations; devastations she should
see.
“Gnädige Frau,” I said in a firm loud voice, “wake up. We are in the
middle of the devastated area, you had better look at it.” Sounds as
though a person had been disturbed from deep sleep issued from the
top berth. Personally I do not like to think what I should have said
or done had a strange woman in the train woke me up at 3 A.M. But
Prussian docility responded to an order. Gnädige Frau got down meekly
from her berth and established herself at the window. A suitable
flow of exclamations and adjectives then took place: “entsetzlich,”
“furchtbar,” “schrecklich,” “böse,” and so on. Comfortably wrapped up
in my bunk I surveyed the scene with virtuous satisfaction, feeling
that I was bringing home the war to one Prussian at least in an
entirely right spirit and manner. Gnädige Frau, however, turned my
flank with the military efficiency of her race. To my intense disgust
I found that the text I had provided by this view of the Somme only
led to an elaborate sermon on the devastations of the Russians in
East Prussia. “You cannot imagine what awful things were done by
those terrible Cossacks,” said the lady, “and how our poor cities
were ruined. The rich German towns have had to become godparents
to whole districts in the devastated area.” She rattled on in this
sense as though the German legions had never set foot in France. I
replied tartly that I hoped the trifling inconveniences experienced
in East Prussia might afford some scale by which she could measure
the sufferings of France, but I could only feel my moral lesson had
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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