Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
Religious processions lend much variety and colour to street life in
Cologne. Throughout the summer months each parish has a procession
every Sunday morning; long rows of priests, nuns, children, and
parishioners walk through the streets carrying banners, flowers, and
emblems. The central point of the procession is the canopy under which
the priest carries the Host. Red-robed acolytes swing censers as they
move slowly along. Altars are erected at convenient halting points in
the streets, where prayers are said and hymns chanted. The pavement
is strewn with green boughs, houses are decorated, and the faithful
erect shrines with crucifixes, sacred images, candles, flowers, etc.
These local festivals culminate in the most famous of all Cologne
processions--that of Corpus Christi. On that day every ecclesiastic,
great and small, from the Archbishop downwards, as well as every
Catholic guild and society, take part in an elaborate and impressive
tour of the town. The vestments are of a gorgeous character. The
uniforms worn by the guilds are of quaint design and many-coloured.
The centuries roll backwards, and for a brief space the finger of the
Middle Ages touches the modern city. The procession concludes with
a service in the cathedral, and the great company of people winding
across the square with banners and emblems and passing up the steps
suggests some mediaeval picture. Religious processions are the only
German pageants which survive to-day on the Dom Platz. One event alone
on the square, brief but memorable, has concerned conquerors and
conquered alike--the first commemoration of the Armistice on 11th
November 1919. Yet of all my recollections of the square it remains the
most impressive.
* * * * *
A bitter morning with a blizzard driving across the river; snowflakes
drift disconsolately over the square, as though doubtful of trying
conclusions with the sombre pile of the cathedral surveying the scene
with gloomy aloofness. Under foot dirt and slush. From every corner of
the square whistles a wind which pierces through furs and coats. Yet
the usual crowd of German spectators are there, pressing as is their
wont on the ranks of the men in khaki who line the square. No less
crowded are the cathedral steps, on which stand a row of trumpeters.
I came late, to find to my surprise that my neighbours are nearly all
Germans. In spite of the dreadful weather there is little movement
among the crowd. People speak under their breath, as though in the
presence of some great solemnity. English and Germans alike, we are
thinking of our dead. For a moment we draw near to one another in the
consciousness of common sorrow, common loss, common pride. The snow
drives in our faces, the merciless wind searches out the shivering
crowd cowering under its umbrellas.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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