Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
I have never seen any information as to the stages of the Industrial
Revolution in Germany. Naturally it came at a later date than our own
and was able to benefit by our mistakes. But to what influence does it
owe a character so different? Here in the lower Rhineland there are big
industrial towns and great factories. These places are not beautiful,
but they lack the overpowering dirt and ugliness of the manufacturing
districts of Lancashire and Yorkshire. All along the lower Rhine one
factory succeeds another, but they consume their own smoke and fumes
and are not allowed to tyrannise over the district. Düsseldorf even
more than Cologne is a great manufacturing centre, and among other
industries has large machine and puddling works in its suburbs. But
the public gardens of the town, which are of great extent and beauty,
might be a hundred miles removed from a factory. Leverkusen, the great
dyeworks near Cologne, has the appearance of a model village. It is
all to the credit of Germany that she has not allowed herself to be
obsessed by that spirit of helpless fatalism which has descended on
too many of the manufacturing districts and towns in England. Men and
women’s lives are spent amid this grime, to the detriment of soul as
well as body. It is a valuable object lesson to learn that, granted
energy and a will to be clean, some of the drawbacks of an ugly
industrialism can be avoided for the workers.
Lancashire and Yorkshire have one feature in common with the German
industrial centres on the lower Rhine. Both have their own beautiful
hinterland. The German hinterland in question has nothing so grand and
so austere to show as the great heather-clad moors and rugged dales
of Yorkshire and Derbyshire. But withal the rural districts of this
smiling Bergische Land, with its wooded valleys and running streams and
black and white houses buried deep among orchards, lie, so it seems,
within a stone’s throw of factories and workshops. Full of charm are
these little valleys, divided one from another by narrow watersheds.
All of a family, yet each possesses its own features and has the
impress of its own personality. A trout stream almost invariably
meanders along the valley, sometimes finding its way through meadows
of long lush grass, Alpine in its greenness, sometimes flowing among
overhanging woods where the murmur of the waters mingles with the
rustling of the leaves or the deeper, more melancholy note of the fir
boughs. It is a smiling, almost park-like land, richly cultivated and
well populated. There are no wild or desert places. Everything perhaps
is a trifle sophisticated. Many of the black and white cottages, gabled
and romantic, might have stepped off the light-comedy stage. Here and
there the moated tower of some ruined Burg or an eighteenth-century
country house set back in a walled garden strikes the same note.
This is not Nature in her strength and power, but Nature laughing,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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