Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
Beyond Nassau we struck up a great plateau with wonderful views, and so
along what is known as the Bader Strasse to Schwalbach and Wiesbaden.
The high land we crossed was a continuation of the Taunus mountains, at
the feet of which Wiesbaden lies. The colouring was wonderful in the
evening light as we motored along the ridge of the hills. Field and
forest were bathed in a bath of blue; blue mist like some enchanter’s
garment hung over the far distance. The rolling country at our feet was
fertile and well cultivated, but the sense of space and distance and
of mountains beyond redeemed any sense of sophistication which must
result from a too obvious agriculture. Beech woods abounded, woods just
caught by that moment of the spring when the delicate green buds begin
to open on the lower branches of the trees, while all is brown above,
and under foot lies the old gold carpet of last year’s leaves. Spring
that week was in the brief but exquisite phase when she resembles a
primitive Italian picture; all the coming beauty foreshadowed but none
of it clearly expressed. Only here and there was the brown of the buds
touched by the green of the young leaves. The call had, however, gone
forth. Up every hillside, among the russet company of the woods, April
waved her white ensign of cherry and blackthorn. I am glad to have
travelled along the Bader Strasse on such a day in the fourth month of
the year.
From the beauties of nature to the elegances of man was an inevitable
step on dropping into Wiesbaden. There seems something very suitable in
the French occupation of this attractive city. The French temperament,
the French genius, are more at home here than in any other German town
I know. Wiesbaden is less “echt Deutsch,” more international in its
atmosphere, than what is usual in the Fatherland. It is a fine town
with broad boulevards and a good many shops. The large Kur Haus is
surrounded by beautiful gardens. German taste frolics, after its usual
fashion, within doors where gilt and plush abound and everything is
costly, vulgar, and comfortable. But apart from this lapse it is a very
attractive town, and the French are fortunate to be housed in it. The
Occupation seems to work smoothly, and there were no obvious signs of
discontent among the German population.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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