Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
Diplomatic relations were a trifle strained between the Allies on the
occasion of our visit, Frankfurt having been occupied by the French
the week before. Over this step the English had shaken their heads.
There had been a collision between the French troops and the people
in the town; some shooting had taken place. We had neither passes nor
permits, but we bluffed our way into Frankfurt on the Sunday afternoon
by the simple expedient of going there. It was no one’s business
apparently to stop a car in which British officers were driving. We
passed through the French sentries without being challenged, and found
ourselves in the town. Frankfurt is a large ugly city with wide streets
and solid-looking buildings. The population was out promenading in its
best Sunday clothes. The streets were crowded, and everything appeared
quite normal. French soldiers of course abounded, and here and there
a stray Belgian was to be seen, Belgium having sent up a few men as
a sign of moral support to France in her enterprise. We were clearly
the only English in the place. I wondered if these Frankfurters would
take the view that we were the advance guard of an English detachment.
However, the attitude of the populace was quite polite. We went to tea
at the Carlton Hotel, which sounded homelike. The big hall was filled
with Germans who surveyed us with some curiosity. But the waiters and
the management tumbled over each other in their anxiety to be civil.
We drove round the town before returning to Wiesbaden and paid a
pilgrimage to Goethe’s house, which unfortunately was closed. At the
Opera House we found a curious state of affairs: French soldiers with
machine guns crowding the steps of the main entrance, while people were
going into some performance through a side-door.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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