Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
A feature of the afternoon’s run, and not a pleasant one, was the
presence of the French coloured troops in the district. Technically the
coloured troops had been withdrawn from the town itself, but they were
in force in the suburbs. Frankfurt is a large city, and its outskirts
stretch for a long distance into a thickly populated industrial area.
A Moroccan battalion in brown jibbahs with red trimming and yellow
tarbouches were hardly soldiers whose presence we should have welcomed
in Birmingham or Manchester had they been introduced by an occupying
enemy power. Large numbers of colonial troops are used by France in her
Army of Occupation. That their presence causes great resentment among
the Germans is understandable. France’s case is that her population has
suffered heavily owing to a war forced upon her by Germany, and that,
with a French man-power depleted and weary, a large colonial army is a
necessity. Whatever the necessity, it is very unfortunate that coloured
troops should be introduced into a country where the complications of
black and yellow races are unknown. White men do not take kindly in
European towns to being policed by Africans or Asiatics. An occupying
army presents moral problems of sufficient difficulty without any
gratuitous additions caused by the introduction of Senegalese and
Moroccans.
At the same time, so far as outrages are concerned, a great deal of
exaggeration has taken place about the French employment of these
troops. Undesirable though the presence of black or coloured men in the
cities of Central Europe, I have no reason to think that they have been
conspicuous for bad or immoral behaviour. Germans have admitted as much
to me. They hate the use of the black troops, but the objection is one
based on general principle, not on specific crimes. Naturally pressmen
and publicists work the black-troops question for all it is worth,
and feeling on the subject runs high. The Germans lose no opportunity
of exploiting any opening presented by mistakes in Allied policy. But
exaggeration is always a boomerang and recoils on the head of those who
use it.
The following day in dripping rain we motored through Mainz to Bingen,
and then across the slate mountains of the Hunsrück and the Hochwald to
Trier and the valley of the Mosel. The fine Roman remains, especially
the Porta Nigra, lend great dignity and character to latter-day Trier.
The cathedral, one of the oldest churches in Germany, has succumbed to
the common disease, fatal to its type, of “a thorough restoration.”
Its interior presents the ordinary bathroom appearance, with concrete
walls painted to represent stones, plus vile modern frescoes, which is
the hard latter-day lot of many fine old Romanesque churches throughout
the Rhineland. One could weep over the destruction of these ancient
monuments and the clumsy unseeing hands which have been laid on them at
such obvious expenditure, not only of money, but of a most misguided
care.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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