Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great BritainFleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Science
Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain
Fleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Electric waves; Sound; Waves
Another matter of interest is the origin of sea waves. Undoubtedly
they are due originally to the action of the wind upon the water.
Whenever two layers of fluid lie in contact with each other, and one
moves faster than the other, the faster-moving layer will throw the
other into waves. This is seen, not only in the action of moving air or
wind upon water, but even in the action of air upon air or water upon
water. From the tops of high mountains we may sometimes look down upon
a flat surface of cloud beneath. On one occasion the author enjoyed a
curious spectacle from the summit of an Alpine peak. The climb up had
been through damp and misty air, but on reaching the summit the clouds
were left behind, and a canopy of blue sky and glorious sunshine were
found overhead. Beneath the clouds lay closely packed like a sea of
white vapour, and through this ocean of cloud the peaks of many high
mountains projected and stood up like islands. The surface of this
sea of white cloud, brilliantly illuminated by the sunshine, was not,
however, perfectly smooth. It was tossed into cloud waves and billows
by the action of currents of air blowing over its upper surface, and
it had a striking resemblance to the surface of a rough sea. When such
a cloud layer is not too thick, the ruffling of its upper or under
surface into cloud waves may thin it away into regular cloud rolls, and
these cloud rollers may then be cut up again by cross air-currents into
patches, and we have the appearance known as a “mackerel sky.”
Another familiar phenomenon is that known as the “ripple-mark” on wet
sand. As the tide ebbs out over a smooth bank of sea-sand, it leaves
the surface ploughed into regular rounded ridges and furrows, which are
stationary waves on the sand. This is called the ripple-mark. It is due
to the fact that the sand, when covered by the water, forms a surface
which in a certain sense is fluid, being saturated and filled with
water, but the movement of this bottom sand-logged water is hindered
by the sand, and hence the layer of overlying water moves over it at a
different speed in ebbing out, and carves it into what are virtually
sand waves.
Even a dry sand or snow surface may in this manner be moulded into a
wave-form by the wind, and very curious effects of this kind have been
noticed and described by Dr. Vaughan Cornish, who has made a great
study of the science of waves.[7]
The production of waves on water by means of a current of air blowing
over it is easily exhibited on a small scale by blowing through an
indiarubber pipe, the end of which is held near the surface of the
water in a tub or tank. The exact manner in which the moving air gets
a grip of the water is not quite plain, but it is clear that, if once
an inequality of level is set up, the moving air has then an oblique
surface against which it can press, and so increase the inequality by
heaping up the water in some places, and hollowing it out in others.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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