Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great BritainFleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Science
Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain
Fleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Electric waves; Sound; Waves
From the motion of the bran we can see that the water swings backwards
and forwards in a horizontal line with a pendulum-like motion, but its
up-and-down or vertical motion is much more restricted. A wave of this
kind travels along a canal with a speed which depends upon the depth
of the canal. If waves of this kind are started in a very long trough,
the wave-length being large compared with the depth of the trough,[8]
it can be shown that the speed of the wave is equal to the velocity
which would be gained by a stone or other heavy body in falling through
half the depth of the canal. Hence, the deeper the water, the quicker
the wave travels. This can be shown as an experimental fact as follows:
Let two galvanized iron tanks be provided, each about 6 feet long and 1
foot wide and deep.
At one end of each tank a hollow cylinder, such as a coffee-canister or
ball made water-tight, is floated, and it may be prevented from moving
from its place by being attached to a hinged rod like the ball-cock of
a cistern. The two tanks are placed side by side, and one is filled to
a depth of 6 inches, and the other to a depth of 3 inches, with water.
Two pieces of wood are then provided and joined together as in Fig.
14, so as to form a double paddle. By pushing this through the water
simultaneously in both tanks at the end opposite to that at which the
floating cylinders are placed, it is possible to start two solitary
waves, one in each tank, at the same instant. These waves rush up to
the other end and cause the floats to bob up. It will easily be seen
that the float on the deeper water bobs up first, thus showing that the
wave on the deeper water has travelled along the tank more quickly than
the wave on the shallower water.
[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
In order to calculate the speed of the waves, we must call to mind
the law governing the speed of falling bodies. If a stone falls from
a height its speed increases as it falls. It can be shown that the
speed in feet per second after falling from any height is obtained by
multiplying together the number 8 and a number which is the square root
of the height in feet.
Thus, for instance, if we desire to know the speed attained by falling
from a height of 25 feet above the earth’s surface, we multiply 8 by 5,
this last number being the square root of 25. Accordingly, we find the
velocity to be 40 feet per second, or about 26 miles an hour.
The force of the blow which a body administers and suffers on striking
the ground depends on the energy of motion it has acquired during the
fall, and as this varies as the square of the speed, it varies also as
the height fallen through.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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