Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great BritainFleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Science
Waves and ripples in water, air, and æther : $b Being a course of Christmas lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain
Fleming, J. A. (John Ambrose), Sir
Electric waves; Sound; Waves
1, where the circular dotted lines represent the
paths described by corks floating on the sea-surface when waves are
travelling over it.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
Accordingly, we conclude that we have to distinguish clearly between
the actual individual motion of each water particle and that general
motion called the wave-motion. We may define the latter by saying that
to produce a wave-motion, each separate particle of a medium, be it
water, or air, or any other fluid, must execute a movement which is
repeated again and again, and the several particles along any line
must perform this same motion one after the other, that is, lagging
behind each other, and not simultaneously. We might illustrate this
performance by supposing a row of fifty boys to stand in a line in a
play-ground, and each boy _in turn_ to lift up his arm and let it down
again, and to continue to perform this action. If all the boys lifted
up their arms together, that would not produce a wave-motion; but
if each boy did it one after the other in order, along the rank, it
would constitute a _wave-motion_ travelling along the line of boys. In
more learned language, we may define a wave-motion by saying that _a
wave-motion exists in any medium when the separate portions of it along
any line execute in order any kind of cyclical or repeated motion, the
particles along this line performing the movement one after the other,
and with a certain assigned delay between each adjacent particle as
regards their stage in the movement_.
It will be evident, therefore, that there can be many different kinds
of waves, depending upon the sort of repeated motion the several parts
perform.
Some of the numerous forms of wave-motion can be illustrated by
mechanical models as follows:—
A board has fastened to it a series of wooden wheels, and on the edge
of each wheel is fixed a white knob. The wheels are connected together
by endless bands, so that on turning one wheel round they all revolve
in the same direction. If the knobs are so arranged to begin with,
that each one is a little in advance of its neighbour on the way round
the wheel, then when the wheels are standing still the knobs will be
arranged along a wavy line (see Fig. 2). On turning round the first
wheel, each knob will move in a circle, but every knob will be lagging
a little behind its neighbour on one side, and a little in advance
of its neighbour on the other side. The result will be to produce a
wave-motion, and, looking at the general effect of the moving knobs, we
shall see that it resembles a hump moving along, just as in the case of
a water wave.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
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