WESTWARD HOBOES [Illustration: THE SILVER BRACELET, WALPI. _Frontispiece_] WESTWARD HOBOES UPS AND DOWNS OF FRONTIER MOTORING BY WINIFRED HAWKRIDGE DIXON PHOTOGRAPHS BY KATHERINE THAXTER AND ROLLIN LESTER DIXON NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS 1921 COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS Published October, 1921 Reprinted twice in December, 1921 PRINTED AT THE SCRIBNER PRESS NEW YORK, U. S. A. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. WESTWARD HO! 1 II. FROM NEW YORK TO ANTOINE’S 7 III. A LONG WAYS FROM HOME 15 IV. CHIVALRY VS. GUMBO 25 V. NIBBLING AT THE MAP OF TEXAS 35 VI. “DOWN BY THE RIO GRANDE” 47 VII. SANDSTORMS, BANDITS AND DEAD SOLDIERS 60 VIII. TUCSON 74 IX. TWENTY PER CENT GRADES, FORTY PER CENT VANILLA 82 X. THE APACHE TRAIL AND TONTO VALLEY 98 XI. FRIDAY THE THIRTEENTH 121 XII. WHY ISLETA’S CHURCH HAS A WOODEN FLOOR 148 XIII. SANTE FÉ AND THE VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE 160 XIV. SAYING GOOD-BY TO BILL 190 XV. LAGUNA AND ACOMA 204 XVI. THE GRAND CANYON AND THE HAVASUPAI CANYON 220 XVII. FROM WILLIAMS TO FORT APACHE 234 XVIII. THE LAND OF THE HOPIS 244 XIX. THE FOUR CORNERS 258 XX. RAINBOW BRIDGE 270 XXI. THE CANYON DE CHELLEY 296 XXII. NORTH OF GALLUP 308 XXIII. ON NATIONAL PARKS AND GUIDES 326 XXIV. THE NAIL-FILE AND THE CHIPPEWA 346 XXV. HOMEWARD HOBOES 358 ILLUSTRATIONS The silver bracelet, Walpi _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE Our first camp, Texas 52 San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson, and the Rapago Indian village 76 Doorway of San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson 78