Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
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Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
I lay awake for hours, watching the stars wheel over the curve of
the arch. It was not surprising that the Navajos held this spot in
superstitious reverence, as the haunt of gods. We were all, I think, in
a state of suspended attention, waiting for something to happen which
never did happen. Soon the moon, startlingly brilliant in the high air,
circled over to the wall topping the southwest side of the bridge, and
upon this lofty screen the arch was reproduced in silhouette. Why this
should have seemed the last touch to the strange beauty of the place I
do not know, but when I waked Toby to watch it, we lay there, almost
holding our breath, until the shadow had made its arc down the side of
the cliff and disappeared.
After a week’s travel to reach the Bridge, to turn homeward instantly
seemed ridiculous. The first day took us a weary twenty-five miles back
to De-jiss-je Camp, prodding our exhausted animals every step of the
way, till we too were exhausted. We intended to circle back through
Utah, crossing Piute and Nakis Canyons at the upper end and touching
the lower edge of the Monument country. Always a wearing trip, ours to
the Bridge and back was more than usually so, because our unexpected
arrival at Kayenta had given no chance to get the horses in condition.
Tired animals mean forced camps, irregular and scanty meals, and
consequently less sleep and more fatigue,--a vicious circle.
We ate the last of the mutton that night. Tough and sandy and gristly
it proved, but the stew from it was fairly delicious. When the meal
ended, Wah-Wah borrowed a needle and thread, and smilingly announced to
our circle that he intended to mend his outer garments. Without further
ceremony, he pulled his shirt and trousers off, leaving only his
checkerboard underdrawers. Pleased at the concentration of interest,
which he attributed to his skill at sewing, he beamed upon us all.
“Disgusting old heathen,” said Martha.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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