Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoringDixon, Winifred Hawkridge
General
Westward hoboes : $b ups and downs of frontier motoring
Dixon, Winifred Hawkridge
Automobile travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Friday the thirteenth, the date of our own exit from that picturesque
and turbulent town, opened inauspiciously. A flat tire, incurred
overnight, caused an hour’s delay at the start. While we breakfasted at
the Copper Queen, it again lost courage, and we had no choice but to
thump downhill to the garage, near the great Copper Queen mine which
daily levels mountains and fills up valleys. But our spare tire was
found to be locked, and the key was in one of our seven suitcases.
All work ceased till by a miracle of memory we recalled that the key
was in a coat pocket, the coat was in a suitcase, the suitcase in the
bottom of the trunk,--but where was the trunk key? More delay while
we both searched our overflowing handbags,--and nothing embarrasses a
woman more than to have half a dozen men watch her futile dives into
her handbag. At last it appeared, and in due time, when we had wrestled
like born baggage-smashers with the heavy suitcases, opened the bottom
one and found the key, repacked the suitcase, put it back, lifted the
other four on top, locked the trunk, and replaced the other baggage,
we unlocked the spare tire. It did not budge from the rim. Earlier
that luckless morning, I had backed into an unexpected telegraph pole,
jamming the spare tire braces out of shape. So the garage men went back
and forth on futile errands, as garagemen will, picking tools up and
dropping them again with an air of satisfied achievement. Finally a
young Samson came to the rescue, bending the tire into place with his
bare hands, and after that they took only an hour to change the tires.
With the sun high in front of us, we drove through the smoke and fumes
of the mines, past pretty suburbs, into the open plateau leading to
Douglas. We expected to be in Deming that night.
The mountains and canyons of yesterday subsided into a broad plain,
with a poplar-bordered canal trickling prettily through it. At noon we
sighted Douglas, a city of smoke-stacks simmering in a fog of coal gas.
A once-good macadam road wound into an unsightly group of smelters and
huge slag heaps,--the usual backdoor entrance of a Western town,--and
suddenly reformed into a main street, imposing with buildings so
new they looked ill at ease among the old-settler lunch shacks and
ex-saloons. Side streets beginning bravely from the new electric light
pillars, became disheartened at the second block, and were smothered in
sand at the third.
To crown a banal hobby with the height of banality, I have for years
amused myself wherever I may be by collecting postcards of Main Street
looking South, or North, depending on the location of the public
library and the fire station. Every orthodox postcard artist begins
with Main Street. An extra charm to Main Street looking South in
Douglas lay in its crossing the border and fizzling out into Mexico.
Each time we had skirted the border, Mexico had beckoned alluringly,
tempting us to discover what lay behind her drop curtain of monotonous
blue and brown.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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