Westward with the Prince of WalesNewton, W. Douglas (Wilfrid Douglas)
History
Westward with the Prince of Wales
Newton, W. Douglas (Wilfrid Douglas)
Canada -- Description and travel; Windsor, Edward, Duke of, 1894-1972
The Prince went up the steep cobbled street of The Mountain under the
grey, solid old masonry of the Battery that hangs over the town in
front of Laval University, that with the Archbishop's palace looks like
a piece of old France translated bodily to Canada.
So he came to the big, green Place des Armes, not now a place of arms,
and at that particular moment not green, but as thick as a gigantic
flower-bed with the pretty dresses of pretty women--and there is all
the French charm in the beauty of the women of Quebec--and with the
khaki and commonplace of soldiers and civilians. A mighty and
enthusiastic crowd that did not allow its French accent to hinder the
shout of welcome it had caught up from the throng that lined the slopes
of The Mountain.
From this point the route twisted to the right along the Grande Allee,
going first between tall and upright houses, jalousied and severe
faced, to where a strip of side road swung it left again, and up hill
to the Citadel, where His Royal Highness lived during his stay.
From the Place des Armes the profile of the town pushes back along the
heights to the peak on which is the Citadel, a squat and massive
structure that seems to have grown rather than to have been built from
the living rock upon which it is based.
Between the Citadel and the Place des Armes there is a long, grey stone
wall above the green glacis of the cliff. It has the look of a
military wall, and it is not a military wall. It supports merely a
superb promenade, Dufferin Terrace, a great plank walk poised sheer
above the river, the like of which would be hard to equal anywhere. On
this the homely people of Quebec take the air in a manner more
sumptuous than many of the most aristocratic resorts in Europe.
At the eastern end of this terrace, and forming the wing of the Place
des Armes, is the medieval structure of the Chateau Frontenac, a
building not really more antique than the area of hotels _de luxe_, of
which it is an extremely fine example, but so planned by its designers
as to fit delightfully into the antique texture of the town.
Below and shelving away eastward again is the congested old town,
through which the Prince had come, and behind Citadel and promenade,
and stretching over the plateau of the cape, is a town of broad and
comely streets, many trees and great parks as modern as anything in
Canada.
That night the big Dufferin Terrace was thronged by people out to see
the firework display from the Citadel, and to watch the illuminations
of the city and of the ships down on the calm surface of the water. It
was rather an unexpected crowd. There were the sexes by the thousands
packed together on that big esplanade, listening to the band, looking
at the fireworks and lights, the whole town was there in a holiday
mood, and there was not the slightest hint of horseplay or disorder.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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