Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that our landlady had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introduced as "_mi madre_," and two or three Indian _muchachas_, or girls, clad in a costume not differing much from that of our mother Eve. The latter were obese in their figures, and the mingled perspiration and filth standing upon their skins were any thing but agreeable to the eye. The two senoras, with these handmaids near them, were sitting in front of the house, busily engaged in executing some needlework. Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the night, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much offended with her. She had therefore directed her _muchachas_ to sweep out one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square, to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge during the night; and as soon as the necessary preparations were made, we retired to our dismal apartment. The "compound of villanous smells" which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the night augured unfavourably for repose. The place had evidently been the abode of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description. But with the aid of a dark-coloured tallow-candle, which gave just light enough to display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our beds in the cleanest places, and laid down to rest. Distance travelled, 18 miles. CHAPTER III. Armies of fleas Leave the mission Clover Wild mustard A carreta Family travelling Arrive at Pueblo de San José Capt. Fisher Description of the Pueblo The embarcadero Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo Absence of architectural taste in California Town squirrels Fruit garden Grapes Tropical fruits Gaming rooms Contrast between California and American gamesters Leave San José Beautiful avenue Mission of Santa Clara Rich but neglected lands Effects of a bad government A senora on the road-side Kindness of Californian women Fast riding Cruel treatment of horses Arrive at the mission of San Francisco A poor but hospitable family Arrive at the town of San Francisco W.A. Leidesdorff, Esq., American vice-consul First view of the bay of San Francisco Muchachos and Muchachas Capt. Montgomery U.S. sloop-of-war, Portsmouth Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population Commerce of California Extortion of the government and traders. _September 19_.--Several Californians came into the mission during the night or early this morning; among them the husband of our hostess, who was very kind and cordial in his greetings.