Where the forest murmurs : $b Nature essaysSharp, William
History
Where the forest murmurs : $b Nature essays
Sharp, William
Natural history -- Outdoor books
Isolated, in one of the wildest and loneliest mountain-regions of the
Highlands of Ross, I know a hill-tarn so rarely visited that one might
almost say the shadow of man does not fall across its brown water from
year’s end to year’s end. It lies on the summit of a vast barren hill,
its cradle being the hollow of a crater. Seven mountains encircle
Maoldhu from north, south, east, and west. One of these is split like
a hayfork, and that is why it is called in Gaelic the Prong of Fionn.
Another, whose furrowed brows are dark with the immemorial rheum of the
Atlantic, is called the Organ of Oisin, because at a height of about
two thousand feet it shows on its haggard front a black colonnade of
basalt, where all the winds of the west make a wild and desolate music.
I have heard its lamentation falling across the hill-solitudes and down
through the mountain-glens with a sound as of a myriad confused sobs
and cries, a sound that is now a forlorn ecstasy and now the voice of
the abyss and of immeasurable desolation. Another, that on the east,
is an unscalable cone, from whose crest, when sunrise flames the
serrated crags into a crown of burning bronze, the golden eagle sways
like a slow-rising and slow-falling meteor. All day, save for a brief
hour at noon, shadow dwells about its knees, and never lifts from the
dark grassy lochan at its feet. It is called Maol Athair-Uaibhreach,
the Hill of the Haughty Father: I know not why. ‘The Haughty Father’
is a Gaelic analogue for the Prince of Darkness--son of Saturn, as he
is called in an old poem: ‘God’s Elder Brother,’ as he is named in a
legend that I have met or heard of once only--a legend that He was God
of this world before ‘Mac Greinne’ (lit.: Son of the Sun) triumphed
over him, and drove him out of the East and out of the South, leaving
him only in the West and in the North two ancient forgotten cities of
the moon, that in the West below the thunder of grey seas and that in
the North under the last shaken auroras of the Pole.
It is not easy to reach this tarn of Maoldhu even when the hillways are
known. The mountain-flanks have so vast a sweep, with such wide tracts
of barren declivity, where the loose stones and boulders seem to hang
in the air like a grey suspended fruit though the first tempest will
set them rolling in avalanche; there are so many hidden ravines, and
sudden precipices that lean beneath tangled brows like smooth appalling
faces; on the eastern slopes the mountain-sheep cannot climb more than
halfway; on the south and west the wailing curlews are in continual
flight above wide unfrontiered reaches of peat-bog and quaking morass;
so many crags lead abruptly to long shelving ledges shelterless and
slippery as ice, and twice an abyss of a thousand feet falls sheer from
loose rock covered by treacherous heather for a yard or more beyond the
last gnarled, twisted roots.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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