It was at La Paz that Merriam decided to land—La Paz the Beautiful, a
little harbourless town smothered in a living green ribbon that banded
the foot of a cloud-piercing mountain. Here the little steamer stopped
to tread water while the captain’s dory took him ashore that he might
feel the pulse of the cocoanut market. Merriam went too, with his suit
case, and remained.
Kalb, the vice-consul, a Græco-Armenian citizen of the United States,
born in Hessen-Darmstadt, and educated in Cincinnati ward primaries,
considered all Americans his brothers and bankers. He attached himself
to Merriam’s elbow, introduced him to every one in La Paz who wore
shoes, borrowed ten dollars and went back to his hammock.
There was a little wooden hotel in the edge of a banana grove, facing
the sea, that catered to the tastes of the few foreigners that had
dropped out of the world into the _triste_ Peruvian town. At Kalb’s
introductory: “Shake hands with ––––,” he had obediently exchanged
manual salutations with a German doctor, one French and two Italian
merchants, and three or four Americans who were spoken of as gold men,
rubber men, mahogany men—anything but men of living tissue.
After dinner Merriam sat in a corner of the broad front _galeria_ with
Bibb, a Vermonter interested in hydraulic mining, and smoked and drank
Scotch “smoke.” The moonlit sea, spreading infinitely before him,
seemed to separate him beyond all apprehension from his old life. The
horrid tragedy in which he had played such a disastrous part now began,
for the first time since he stole on board the fruiter, a wretched
fugitive, to lose its sharper outlines. Distance lent assuagement to
his view. Bibb had opened the flood-gates of a stream of long-dammed
discourse, overjoyed to have captured an audience that had not suffered
under a hundred repetitions of his views and theories.
“One year more,” said Bibb, “and I’ll go back to God’s country. Oh, I
know it’s pretty here, and you get _dolce far niente_ handed to you in
chunks, but this country wasn’t made for a white man to live in. You’ve
got to have to plug through snow now and then, and see a game of
baseball and wear a stiff collar and have a policeman cuss you. Still,
La Paz is a good sort of a pipe-dreamy old hole. And Mrs. Conant is
here. When any of us feels particularly like jumping into the sea we
rush around to her house and propose. It’s nicer to be rejected by Mrs.
Conant than it is to be drowned. And they say drowning is a delightful
sensation.”
“Many like her here?” asked Merriam.
“Not anywhere,” said Bibb, with a comfortable sigh. She’s the only
white woman in La Paz. The rest range from a dappled dun to the colour
of a b-flat piano key. She’s been here a year. Comes from—well, you
know how a woman can talk—ask ’em to say ‘string’ and they’ll say
‘crow’s foot’ or ‘cat’s cradle.’ Sometimes you’d think she was from
Oshkosh, and again from Jacksonville, Florida, and the next day from
Cape Cod.”
“Mystery?” ventured Merriam.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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