Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
I smiled and passed on. The mill was below the level of the road, and
its wheel was turned by the water of a little conduit supplied by the
brook at some distance above the mill. I had observed similar conduits
employed for similar purposes in Cornwall. A little below the mill was a
weir, and a little below the weir the river ran frothing past the extreme
end of the elephant’s snout. Following the course of the river, I at
last emerged with it from the pass into a valley surrounded by enormous
mountains. Extending along it from west to east, and occupying its
entire southern part, lay an oblong piece of water, into which the
streamlet of the pass discharged itself. This was one of the many
beautiful lakes, which a few days before I had seen from the Wyddfa. As
for the Wyddfa, I now beheld it high above me in the north-east, looking
very grand indeed, shining like a silver helmet whilst catching the
glories of the setting sun.
I proceeded slowly along the road, the lake below me on my right hand,
whilst the shelvy side of Snowdon rose above me on the left. The evening
was calm and still, and no noise came upon my ear save the sound of a
cascade falling into the lake from a black mountain, which frowned above
it on the south, and cast a gloomy shadow far over it.
This cataract was in the neighbourhood of a singular-looking rock,
projecting above the lake from the mountain’s side. I wandered a
considerable way without meeting or seeing a single human being. At
last, when I had nearly gained the eastern end of the valley, I saw two
men seated on the side of the hill, on the verge of the road, in the
vicinity of a house which stood a little way up the hill. The lake here
was much wider than I had hitherto seen it, for the huge mountain on the
south had terminated, and the lake expanded considerably in that quarter,
having instead of the black mountain a beautiful hill beyond it.
I quickened my steps, and soon came up to the two individuals. One was
an elderly man, dressed in a smock frock, and with a hairy cap on his
head. The other was much younger, wore a hat, and was dressed in a
coarse suit of blue, nearly new, and doubtless his Sunday’s best. He was
smoking a pipe. I greeted them in English, and sat down near them. They
responded in the same language, the younger man with considerable
civility and briskness, the other in a tone of voice denoting some
reserve.
“May I ask the name of this lake?” said I, addressing myself to the young
man, who sat between me and the elderly one.
“Its name is Llyn Cwellyn, sir,” said he, taking the pipe out of his
mouth. “And a fine lake it is.”
“Plenty of fish in it?” I demanded.
“Plenty, sir; plenty of trout and pike and char.”
“Is it deep?” said I.
“Near the shore it is shallow, sir, but in the middle and near the other
side it is deep, so deep that no one knows how deep it is.”
“What is the name,” said I, “of the great black mountain there on the
other side?”
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