Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
“It is called Mynydd Mawr, or the Great Mountain. Yonder rock, which
bulks out from it, down the lake yonder, and which you passed as you came
along, is called Castell Cidwm, which means Wolf’s rock or castle.”
“Did a wolf ever live there?” I demanded.
“Perhaps so,” said the man, “for I have heard say that there were wolves
of old in Wales.”
“And what is the name of the beautiful hill yonder, before us across the
water?”
“That, sir, is called Cairn Drws y Coed,” said the man.
“The stone heap of the gate of the wood,” said I.
“Are you Welsh, sir?” said the man.
“No,” said I, “but I know something of the language of Wales. I suppose
you live in that house?”
“Not exactly, sir; my father-in-law here lives in that house, and my wife
with him. I am a miner, and spend six days in the week at my mine, but
every Sunday I come here, and pass the day with my wife and him.”
“And what profession does he follow?” said I; “is he a fisherman?”
“Fisherman!” said the elderly man contemptuously, “not I. I am the
Snowdon Ranger.”
“And what is that?” said I.
The elderly man tossed his head proudly, and made no reply.
“A ranger means a guide, sir,” said the younger man—“my father-in-law is
generally termed the Snowdon Ranger because he is a tip-top guide, and he
has named the house after him the Snowdon Ranger. He entertains
gentlemen in it who put themselves under his guidance in order to ascend
Snowdon and to see the country.”
“There is some difference in your professions,” said I; “he deals in
heights, you in depths; both, however, are break-necky trades.”
“I run more risk from gunpowder than anything else,” said the younger
man. “I am a slate-miner, and am continually blasting. I have, however,
had my falls. Are you going far to-night, sir?”
“I am going to Bethgelert,” said I.
“A good six miles, sir, from here. Do you come from Caernarvon?”
“Farther than that,” said I. “I come from Bangor.”
“To-day, sir, and walking?”
“To-day, and walking.”
“You must be rather tired, sir; you came along the valley very slowly.”
“I am not in the slightest degree tired,” said I; “when I start from
here, I shall put on my best pace, and soon get to Bethgelert.”
“Anybody can get along over level ground,” said the old man, laconically.
“Not with equal swiftness,” said I. “I do assure you, friend, to be able
to move at a good swinging pace over level ground is something not to be
sneezed at. Not,” said I, lifting up my voice, “that I would for a
moment compare walking on the level ground to mountain ranging, pacing
along the road to springing up crags like a mountain goat, or assert that
even Powell himself, the first of all road walkers, was entitled to so
bright a wreath of fame as the Snowdon Ranger.”
“Won’t you walk in, sir?” said the elderly man.
“No, I thank you,” said I; “I prefer sitting out here, gazing on the lake
and the noble mountains.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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