Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery — John Shaqi
Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
General
Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
On the afternoon of Monday I sent my family off by the train to
Llangollen, which place we had determined to make our headquarters during
our stay in Wales. I intended to follow them next day, not in train, but
on foot, as by walking I should be better able to see the country,
between Chester and Llangollen, than by making the journey by the flying
vehicle. As I returned to the inn from the train I took refuge from a
shower in one of the rows or covered streets, to which, as I have already
said, one ascends by flights of steps; stopping at a book-stall I took up
a book which chanced to be a Welsh one—the proprietor, a short red-faced
man, observing me reading the book, asked me if I could understand it. I
told him that I could.
“If so,” said he, “let me hear you translate the two lines on the
title-page.”
“Are you a Welshman?” said I.
“I am!” he replied.
“Good!” said I, and I translated into English the two lines which were a
couplet by Edmund Price, an old archdeacon of Merion, celebrated in his
day for wit and poetry.
The man then asked me from what part of Wales I came, and when I told him
that I was an Englishman was evidently offended, either because he did
not believe me, or, as I more incline to think, did not approve of an
Englishman’s understanding Welsh.
The book was the life of the Rev. Richards, and was published at
Caerlleon, or the city of the legion, the appropriate ancient British
name for the place now called Chester, a legion having been kept
stationed there during the occupation of Britain by the Romans.
I returned to the inn and dined, and then yearning for society, descended
into the kitchen and had some conversation with the Welsh maid. She told
me that there were a great many Welsh in Chester from all parts of Wales,
but chiefly from Denbighshire and Flintshire, which latter was her own
county. That a great many children were born in Chester of Welsh
parents, and brought up in the fear of God and love of the Welsh tongue.
That there were some who had never been in Wales, who spoke as good Welsh
as herself, or better. That the Welsh of Chester were of various
religious persuasions; that some were Baptists, some Independents, but
that the greater parts were Calvinistic-Methodists; that she herself was
a Calvinistic-Methodist; that the different persuasions had their
different chapels, in which God was prayed to in Welsh; that there were
very few Welsh in Chester who belonged to the Church of England, and that
the Welsh in general do not like Church of England worship, as I should
soon find if I went into Wales.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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