Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
The view over the vale is very beautiful; but on no side, except in the
direction of the west, is it very extensive, Dinas Bran being on all
other sides overtopped by other hills: in that direction, indeed, the
view is extensive enough, reaching on a fine day even to the Wyddfa or
peak of Snowdon, a distance of sixty miles, at least as some say, who
perhaps ought to add, to very good eyes, which mine are not. The day
that I made my first ascent of Dinas Bran was very clear, but I do not
think I saw the Wyddfa then from the top of Dinas Bran. It is true I
might see it without knowing it, being utterly unacquainted with it,
except by name; but I repeat I do not think I saw it, and I am quite sure
that I did not see it from the top of Dinas Bran on a subsequent ascent,
on a day equally clear, when if I had seen the Wyddfa I must have
recognized it, having been at its top. As I stood gazing around the
children danced about upon the grass, and sang a song. The song was
English. I descended the hill; they followed me to its foot, and then
left me. The children of the lower class of Llangollen are great pests
to visitors. The best way to get rid of them is to give them nothing: I
followed that plan, and was not long troubled with them.
Arrived at the foot of the hill, I walked along the bank of the canal to
the west. Presently I came to a barge lying by the bank; the boatman was
in it. I entered into conversation with him. He told me that the canal
and its branches extended over a great part of England. That the boats
carried slates—that he had frequently gone as far as Paddington by the
canal—that he was generally three weeks on the journey—that the boatmen
and their families lived in the little cabins aft—that the boatmen were
all Welsh—that they could read English, but little or no Welsh—that
English was a much more easy language to read than Welsh—that they passed
by many towns, among others Northampton, and that he liked no place so
much as Llangollen. I proceeded till I came to a place where some people
were putting huge slates into a canal boat. It was near a bridge which
crossed the Dee, which was on the left. I stopped and entered into
conversation with one, who appeared to be the principal man. He told me
amongst other things that he was a blacksmith from the neighbourhood of
Rhiwabon, and that the flags were intended for the flooring of his
premises. In the boat was an old bareheaded, bare-armed fellow, who
presently joined in the conversation in very broken English. He told me
that his name was Joseph Hughes, and that he was a real Welshman and was
proud of being so; he expressed a great dislike for the English, who he
said were in the habit of making fun of him and ridiculing his language;
he said that all the fools that he had known were Englishmen. I told him
that all Englishmen were not fools. “But the greater part are,” said he.
“Look how they work,” said I. “Yes,” said he, “some of them are good at
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