Half way down the hill, almost right under my feet, rose a slender
column of smoke, I could not see whence. I hastened towards it, feeling
as strong as when I started in the morning. I zig-zagged down the
slope, for it was steep and slippery with grass, and arrived at length
at a good-sized cottage, which faced the Jungfrau. It was built of
great logs laid horizontally one above the other, all with notches half
through near the end, by which notches, lying into each other, the
sides of the house were held together at the corners. I soon saw it
must be a sort of roadside inn. There was no one about the place, but
passing through a dark vestibule, in which were stores of fodder and
various utensils, I came to a room in which sat a mother and her
daughter, the former spinning, the latter making lace on a pillow. In
at the windows looked the great Jungfrau. The room was lined with
planks; the floor was boarded; the ceiling, too, was of
boards--pine-wood all around.
The women rose when I entered. I knew enough of German to make them
understand my story, and had learned enough of their _patois_ to
understand them a little in return. They looked concerned, and the
older woman passing her hands over my jacket, turned to her daughter
and commenced a talk much too rapid and no doubt idiomatic for me to
follow. It was in the end mingled with much laughter, evidently at some
proposal of the mother. Then the daughter left the room, and the mother
began to heap wood on the fire. In a few minutes the daughter returned,
still laughing, with some garments, which the mother took from her. I
was watching everything from a corner of the hearth, where I had seated
myself wearily. The mother came up to me, and, without speaking, put
something over my head, which I found to be a short petticoat such as
the women wore; then told me I must take off my clothes, and have them
dried at the fire. She laid other garments on a chair beside me.
‘I don’t know how to put them on,’ I objected.
‘Put on as many as you can,’ she said laughing, ‘and I will help you
with the rest.’
I looked about. There was a great press in the room. I went behind it
and pulled off my clothes; and having managed to put on some of the
girl’s garments, issued from my concealment. The kindly laughter was
renewed, and mother and daughter busied themselves in arranging my
apparel, evidently seeking to make the best of me as a girl, an attempt
favoured by my pale face. When I seemed to myself completely arrayed,
the girl said to her mother what I took to mean, ‘Let us finish what we
have begun;’ and leaving the room, returned presently with the velvet
collar embroidered with silver and the pendent chains which the women
of most of the cantons wear, and put it on me, hooking the chains and
leaving them festooned under my arms. The mother was spreading out my
clothes before the fire to dry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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