The Chancellerie, a large building just around the corner from the
Museum, erected in the reign of Philip II and used originally as a law
court, still serves the government by housing the national archives
and the provincial library. With its handsome Gothic façade, this
building is Friesland’s architectural masterpiece and one of the best
preserved of ancient buildings in all Holland. In forceful contrast to
it is Leeuwarden’s structural curiosity, an unfinished church tower of
brick, called the Olde-Hove, one hundred and thirty feet in height and
marking the western boundary of the city proper. Just when it will take
it into its head to topple over is a problem of uncertain solution,
but, judging from this Dutch Leaning Tower of Pisa’s utter disregard
for the perpendicular, it looks as though it might bury a part of
Leeuwarden’s pretty park under its débris almost any minute.
The city of Leeuwarden is entirely surrounded by the cobra-like coil
of a wide canal, the quays of which afford loading and unloading
facilities for the many boats that ply to and from Leeuwarden from and
to almost every point in Holland. Along the north and west edges of
this canal on the town side they have planted lawns and flower beds on
the site of the old city bastions. And, speaking about flower beds, the
largest geraniums I think I ever saw were growing in a little plot near
the station in Leeuwarden; each cluster of blossoms seemed as great in
diameter as the head of a small cabbage. Friesland is also the land of
begonias, but in Groningen the plants seem to bear a larger flower than
they do in Leeuwarden.
Distant as it is from the great centers of Dutch life and activity,
Leeuwarden seems of more recent vintage than any city of its size you
will have seen so far in the Netherlands; its types are fewer than
in almost any town on the other side of the Zuyder Zee and its old
buildings and churches are less numerous. Most of the former they have
adapted to modern usage, and even the old weigh-house that stands
severely alone beside the canal in the Waagsplein has been turned into
a fire station. The canal that sweeps through the town from west to
east is lined where the space permits with little colonies of shops on
wheels, built of corrugated iron and capable of being closed at night
against the mischievous pranks of young Holland--peripatetic shopping
and marketing districts, offering anything and everything for sale that
may be found in the permanent stores.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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