When Hazlitt went to see the pictures at Windsor, he said: "Pope's lines
on Windsor Forest suggest themselves to the mind and make the air
about it delicate". It looks a little odd to attribute to such a poem
the effect of making the air delicate--Banquo having observed to Duncan
that where the martlets "most breed and haunt ... the air is delicate".
Yet it has a truth. The delicacy is sophisticated; it is the delicacy of
three--not to say nine--centuries of artifice, or of Nature hand in hand
with Sir Christopher Wren, Grinling Gibbons, Antonio Verrio, Alexander
Pope, Esquire, and the great gardeners. This artifice is triumphant on
the East Terrace of the Castle itself, the smooth walk half a mile long,
the orangery, the dark and bright symmetrical Italian garden, with its
marble and bronze statuary and its elephants and nymphs, seen from the
white-and-gold royal dining-room. It is strong on the smooth sculptured
turf below the Round Tower and the rose garden in the ditch, though
quaintly alleviated by the gorse above that; still strong in the avenues
of great elms in the Home Park, the lime trees, the grass, as smooth as
a lake and untrodden save by birds, under the Castle hill and the high
rookery trees. If you escape it among the bracken and the warty oaks of
the Great Park, it is suddenly upon you with violence when you look up
at Snow Hill and see the colossal copper statue of Farmer George on
horseback, more magnificent and less amiable now than in life. It is
more than perfect--it is rampant and even, so far as is consistent with
its formality, rollicking--at Virginia Water, the largest artificial
water in England, completed under George III, with its laced waterfall,
its ruined columns brought from Tripoli by George IV, its marble altar
dedicated to Jupiter Helios; the dark yews, close by, and the cedars and
stone pines of Belvidere Wood; the heronry, and the Fishing Cottage
which imperfectly replaces a Fishing Temple in the Chinese style. If
Pope's "Windsor Forest" has become obscure in the night of two hundred
years, Virginia Water speaks in an unquestionable and still flourishing
style.
The Castle itself, that sublime cloud upon the western horizon, if it is
approached more nearly, is not what it seems when, from a road or river
far to the west, it is fit to embody our fancies of that fairest castle
that man ever saw, in the dream of Maxen; or from the fields of Datchet;
or from the railway arch over the Clewer footpath, which gives a view of
smooth water gleaming between old walls, with swans, placid masts and
curled pennons, and to the left Eton Chapel and its high dark windows
among poplars and serrated roofs in a sky of grey satin, and to the
right the closely gathered huge bulk of the Castle above the small town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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