Automobile travel; France -- Description and travel
These great religious temples are all in place here in old Europe,
but I cannot but think that the erection of a vast cathedral for the
Episcopal Church in America is money ill spent and but to gratify
vanity. These structures were built when great temples were almost a
necessity for the processions of the Church of Rome, but they are of
little use, save the choir, for any other purpose even in that church
of to-day and, aside from the Cathedral of Westminster in London, the
Church of Rome has erected no such structures since that of Orleans.
The good people of Beauvais in the year 1225 evidently bent upon
building a church which would dwarf that of their neighbors in Amiens,
began this one before me; and if they had completed it they would
have succeeded in their intention, for that vast edifice could then
have been placed bodily within this structure, as the ridge pole of
this roof is one hundred and fifty-three feet above the pavement or
thirteen feet higher than that of Amiens, and three feet higher than
the Cathedral of Cologne; but, money and the genius of the architect
both failed,--the former want calling a halt on further progress,
and the latter, through his desire to have as few inner supports as
possible over-shot his mark, so the walls bulged and roof collapsed in
1284. With the repair of that damage came a cessation of all work, and
so the cathedral stands to-day. As I wander around it in the darkness,
I stumble upon a little structure at its western end, evidently much
older than its gigantic neighbour, as it is Roman in design, and in the
shadow farther on rise two great round towers of some château; exactly
what it is one does not know or care to inquire, leaving all facts for
the plain daylight of the morrow and allowing the darkness of to-night
to claim what it may.
Even in the shadows one may discern that Beauvais is a very curious
old place. Ancient it certainly is, as Cæsar mentions this district,
but its most memorable day was that upon which it closed its gates in
the face of a vast Burgundian army, and kept them closed until succour
arrived from Paris. Women took such a prominent part in the siege that
Louis XI. complimented them and declared that they should forever march
first in the commemorative procession,--this they do in this year,
1905. One can well imagine that Louis cared little for the women, but
it gave him another opportunity of humiliating his noblemen.
On my return to the inn, I have the great square all to myself save
for a rising moon,--in fact, I wonder whether I have not the whole
of Beauvais to myself, for I have not met a dozen of my kind since I
started out,--but as the air is cold and the moonlight seems very
old to-night, let us to bed, where I, at least, dream of disjointed
churches and queer round towers when I dream of anything at all,--which
is not often, for sleep after these rushing rides is as profound as
death.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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