The West Bay, if less sheltered, is more spacious and airy. Living in
it, you are more in the world—near the shops, cab-stand,
railway-station, reading-room and library, new English church,
post-office, Promenade du Midi, and all the walks and rides in the
lateral valleys. I should say that this quarter is most suitable for
mere health-loungers—those who seek for recreation in open air and
exercise. With a south-eastern or south-western exposure, it is sunny
enough for all ordinary requirements, and is chosen by many invalids for
its amenities, as is observable from the number of persons who are drawn
along the Promenade in Bath-chairs, courting health from the
sea-breezes, tempered by the brilliant sunshine. In the West Bay,
beginning at Carnolles, and extending to the centre of the town, there
are numerous hotels, some pleasantly situated, so as to overlook the
Promenade, and others at the base of the rising grounds. Here, also, are
a variety of villas for hire, and a number of houses specially called
_pensions_, the distinction between which and hotels is not very clear,
so far as concerns the residence of strangers for the season. In all the
hotels, possibly with one or two exceptions, there is a practice of
receiving guests _en pension_—that is to say, they give board and
lodging at so much per day. Whether designated hotels or pensions, these
establishments are for the most part on a scale of considerable
magnitude.
At these establishments no introduction is necessary. All are received
on an equality, no matter what be the nationality or rank in life. Some
houses are resorted to more by German or French visitors than others,
while some are preferred by English and Americans. The charge per day
for each person is usually from ten to twelve francs. For this sum you
have a small bedroom, fit for only one person, breakfast, luncheon, and
dinner, with generally the use of a public drawing-room. Candles,
firewood, and service are paid for separately. The object seems to be to
let as many bedrooms, and as few salons or private sitting-rooms, as
possible; at all events, the charge is made so high for a salon, that
comparatively few indulge in that luxury. The French way of living is
adopted. The meals are served to the guests in the _salle à manger_; but
in the case of breakfast, guests may ordinarily choose their own hour.
In fact, the breakfast, _petit déjeûner_, is a trifle, something to
carry you on till noon, and consists only of tea or coffee with bread
and butter. Luncheon at twelve is the _déjeûner_ proper, and is styled
the _déjeûner à la fourchette_. It is in reality a dinner with different
hot meats and omelettes, but without soup or dessert. Half a bottle of
_vin ordinaire_ is allowed to each person. Dinner, the great meal of the
day, takes place at six o’clock. This is the well-known _table-d’hôte_,
set out in good style. There is the same allowance of vin ordinaire as
at noon, but other wines are supplied to order.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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